Thanks Chuck. I’d like to follow your experience. Are you attacking this from the top or bottom? It’s getting into the late summer up here in SE Alaska and I’m trying to gauge whether this is doable in the off-season. Clear, warm weather is hard to come by up here. I could tent and heat but my thought is to heat the interior even though I’ve been reading about how difficult it is to do working underneath.
Thanks again for the follow up. James Bibb. > On Sep 1, 2018, at 3:12 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Hi James, > I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. I have to > look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a G10 boss > around the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the opening to > protect the balsa from water. > > I find kevlar in every part of the boat though many people tell me it isn't > required in a small patch. The stringers under the floor had at least six > layers of kevlar alternating with glass and mat making 13 to 15 layers total. > The solid vertical parts of the cockpit and transom have glass, mat, glass, > mat, kevlar, mat kevlar, mat, glass, mat, glass. The deck has 3/4" balsa and > a layup that I think is glass, mat, kevlar, mat, glass above and below. That > gives two layers of kevlar to the composite structure. If you follow best > practices and grind the skin to a 12:1 bevel recommended by West System you > will see the layers. > > I'll try to find pictures and send them to your email. > > Good luck with your project. I have about six feet of each of my side decks > to do this fall. > >> On August 31, 2018 at 9:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is >> similar. >> >> The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think Ken >> Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply makes >> up some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I would expect it >> in the hull and would not be surprised to see it in the deck. Hard to say if >> it would be preferentially placed in the inner or outer skin. >> >> As for the core, I was anticipating deck rot when I had my mast pulled. To >> my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the mast is not cored. >> Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts and stops by the >> thickness changing. A perfect example is near the toe rail. There is a 3" >> wide deck section all the way around the boat. I thought it was just a >> gutter. It is, but it is also an area which is not cored. Same thing in >> the anchor locker as the hull walls approach the toe rail. Repairs from in >> the cabin have the challenge of not having direct access to the cabin top >> since there is a "headliner". You can inspect and get an idea of what lies >> ahead but in order to re-core you would want unfettered access to the entire >> area of rot. You'd be best cut around the rim to remove the entire >> headliner. I do like the idea of not disturbing the outer skin. If you end >> up going the outside route I suggest trying to keep as much of the skin >> together as a single piece or symmetrical pieces. A product I like that can >> finish off this type of work is kiwi-grip. It is a urethane non-skid with a >> thick coat and variable texture. It covers seams in the skins great. >> >> Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like. Black 2mm thick, 5' wide. >> http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php >> <http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php> >> >> As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped the yard used >> what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same except that it was >> even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches. Call Zanhizers in Solomons MD and they can >> probably send you a roll. You might have to talk to Phil or Jack. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head >> on port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area >> where the bowman has been working since 1991. >> >> 1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part >> however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa. Does >> anybody know where the distinction is around the boat? >> >> I’ll be removing the mast for this work. >> >> Also…from below or above? I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if >> I can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin >> environment to help curing. >> >> Anybody been down this road? >> >> Also….need to find a replacement mast boot. The current one is worn and >> needs replacing. >> >> >> Thanks! >> >> James Bibb >> >> SV Darwins Folly >> 1991 C&C 34-36R >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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