A "Lawn-Guy-Lander" being irascible?  Never happen....

>From my Android....

________________________________
From: CnC-List <[email protected]> on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 10:03:18 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

I know the R is stripped down but no inner fiberglass tray to hide wires and 
lights?

Josh

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 9:19 PM James Bibb via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Thanks Josh!  I bet we have a similar deck as well.  This helps me out.

I have no head liner…beauty of the stripped down version so I have everything 
accessible.

Thanks.



On Aug 31, 2018, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is similar.

The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think Ken 
Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply makes up 
some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I would expect it in 
the hull and would not be surprised to see it in the deck. Hard to say if it 
would be preferentially placed in the inner or outer skin.

As for the core, I was anticipating deck rot when I had my mast pulled.  To my 
pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the mast is not cored.  
Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts and stops by the thickness 
changing.  A perfect example is near the toe rail.  There is a 3" wide deck 
section all the way around the boat.  I thought it was just a gutter.  It is, 
but it is also an area which is not cored.  Same thing in the anchor locker as 
the hull walls approach the toe rail.  Repairs from in the cabin have the 
challenge of not having direct access to the cabin top since there is a 
"headliner".  You can inspect and get an idea of what lies ahead but in order 
to re-core you would want unfettered access to the entire area of rot.  You'd 
be best cut around the rim to remove the entire headliner.  I do like the idea 
of not disturbing the outer skin.  If you end up going the outside route I 
suggest trying to keep as much of the skin together as a single piece or 
symmetrical pieces.  A product I like that can finish off this type of work is 
kiwi-grip.  It is a urethane non-skid with a thick coat and variable texture.  
It covers seams in the skins great.

Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like.  Black 2mm thick, 5' wide. 
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php

As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped the yard used 
what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same except that it was 
even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches.  Call Zanhizers in Solomons MD and they can 
probably send you a roll.  You might have to talk to Phil or Jack.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on 
port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where 
the bowman has been working since 1991.

1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part 
however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa.  Does 
anybody know where the distinction is around the boat?

I’ll be removing the mast for this work.

Also…from below or above?  I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if I 
can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin environment 
to help curing.

Anybody been down this road?

Also….need to find a replacement mast boot.  The current one is worn and needs 
replacing.


Thanks!

James Bibb

SV Darwins Folly
1991 C&C 34-36R
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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