Hi James We used to own a J Boat (J/27) and it was very routine to replace deck core. We previously had a Hinterhoeller built and designed Niagara 26 where we had to recore large areas around both chainplates and most of the cockpit floor. The J27 also had no headliner which did indeed make work easier.
We did all of the work from above. If doing from below you would likely wish to use a vacuum bagging system and need a lot of supports to hold everything in place. From above gravity is your friend. The Niagara had a painted deck which we had repainted with Interlux Interthane Plus (possibly now Perfection) which is a 2 part paint similar to Awlgrip. Amy rep[airs we could use Interlux Brightside which had a perfect color match and was easy to apply and blended in perfectly. The J-Boat had a gray non-skid on white deck in sections so was very easy to color match as I simply painted the entire deck with Interdeck grey. Since the decks were either to be painted or already painted U cut out topskin and chiseled out the core. Make sure you get out all the wet core. Then layers of cloth using Epoxy or polyester (your choice), core material and then thickened polyester or epoxy (usually epoxy by this point) with West 407 sandable filler or similar. Lots of sanding and checking to ensure deck was level and had no low or high spots and then prime and paint using Interdeck (or you could use Kiwi-grip). A friend also with a J/27 popped off a section of the topskin to top the job from above and then reused that section afterward. The upside of this method is matching nonskid while the downside is possibility of trapped air bubbles. Replacing deck core is actually a fairly simple process and the end result can be quite satisfying. On the J-boat we had to do this in 14 sections where the deck had been wet or even rotted (around 4 stanchion bases, 2 chainplates, bow pulpit feet, dorade on bow, cockpit seats in 4 areas, under primary winch on stbd and under genoa track on stbd). I phot-documented the process but our web site has been down since we switched internet providers over the winter. I could send photos off line if you are interested. Note that for a Kevlar construction you should research what to use for this repair. I suspect epoxy may bond but doubt polyester would. You may also find other alternatives. Mike Persistence 1987 Frers 33 #16 Halifax, NS -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James Bibb via CnC-List Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 9:26 PM To: Chuck S via CnC-List Cc: James Bibb Subject: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where the bowman has been working since 1991. 1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa. Does anybody know where the distinction is around the boat? I’ll be removing the mast for this work. Also…from below or above? I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if I can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin environment to help curing. Anybody been down this road? Also….need to find a replacement mast boot. The current one is worn and needs replacing. Thanks! James Bibb SV Darwins Folly 1991 C&C 34-36R _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
