Tim:

    The strut on my boat (42 Custom) was not mounted as securely as one would 
expect (no backing plate, for instance), and a prior owner had done an 
inadequate job on a previous repair.  Probably the same PO that used bondo to 
level the limber holes – but I digress.  Worse yet, the damaged fiberglass had 
allowed water to enter balsa coring, causing even more harm.  I had it 
professionally repaired.  My guru cut out the inner skin all around the strut 
area, filled it with West System and glass (no coring) both to strengthen and 
to seal off the area from balsa core, repaired the outer skin damage and 
faired, and remounted the strut -- this time using a backing plate.  I have not 
had any issues since.

    One of the problems with the Martec folding prop is that it will sometimes 
open half-way (one blade), which shakes the hell out of the boat.  I went to a 
Flex-o-Fold prop in part for this reason.  As I’m sure you know, the solution 
is to go to neutral, then reverse, then back into forward.  The excessive 
shaking when this occurs (and the occasional dock line grab) cannot be good for 
the strut, so it should be solidly mounted.

    On the hull flex question, the amount of deflection likely depends on where 
the pads are located.  I would think that there isn’t much change near the 
strut.  You must repair it on the hard in any event, so I suggest getting it as 
close as possible to it’s present location.  The idea of remounting it with the 
shaft in place sounds right to me.


From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Tim Rutherford 
Subject: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 
36-1 KCB

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally the 
fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it doesn't 
feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for bottom job 
and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on how best to 
proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the fairing.


>From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and 
>bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with a 
>close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is required 
>is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and replace, seal, 
>and re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is necessary 
i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft slides easily 
through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log and seal, and 
visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I can proceed with 
the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more time than money, so 
DIY work is preferred.


2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan final 
engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands cause strut 
alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an independent Yanmar 
mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.


2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method of 
application?


The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of clearance 
to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at Martec for 
refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar mounts. While 
under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound like rubber 
marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed 
like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I purchased the boat in 
June '17, and after about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS 
that is getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass 
bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something similar. 
All help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL

[email protected]
813 748 4888 cel/text


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