Tim,
While I haven't had to change out the strut, I've removed/reinstalled
the engine a few times (don't ask), and used your basic approach: shaft
sliding easily in the bearing and centered in the log, then set the
engine flange to the shaft flange while on the hard. Checked it after
splash, and found I had to adjust the engine a bit as the boat does flex
differently in the water.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/28/2018 10:15 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote:
Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and
externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut
base although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing.
She's on the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm
interested in your thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut
mount leak and cracks in the fairing.
From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned
and bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were
drilled with a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the
strut all that is required is to remove the fairing material and then
simply remove and replace, seal, and re-fair.
My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the
shaft slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the
shaft log and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all
the above, than I can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what,
call a pro? I have more time than money, so DIY work is preferred.
2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I
plan final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the
yard stands cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working
with an independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.
2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the
method of application?
The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's
back at Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back
with OE Yanmar mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail
locker lid to sound like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency
that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but
there was no change since I purchased the boat in June '17, and after
about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is
getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass
bearing.
Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
similar. All help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
813 748 4888 cel/text
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
