There is a West equivalent to the Thixo Flex. Also fits in a caulking gun. I believe it is 610. Same nozzles.A couple bucks more, but available most places that sell West.
Joel On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 10:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > Learned these things the hard way: > > The *3M heavy duty shipping tape* is a great product and available > everywhere and doesn't leave a residue like duct tape. After the epoxy > cures, it peels right off and will leave the final surface smooth. > > If you use *404 High Density Filler* instead of 406, you'll find it is > heavier than air and doesn't blow around like 406. The same when sanding, > the dust falls instead of blowing into your lungs or onto the neighbor's > boat. > > A small *wet vac* is a must on the boat for any of this work. I like a 6 > gallon with big strong motor like 4.5HP peak and I add the extra long > hose. I glued a piece of carpet to the bottom so it doesn't scuff the deck > or cabin sole. I keep a paper bag in it and I can position the machine in > the middle of the boat and reach from bow to stern. Be mindful where the > exhaust is pointed. > > Another great product I started using is *Thixo Flex*, a flexible epoxy > in a caulking cartridge from Jamestown Distributers. It provides a 45 > minute working time and there's much less waste. The two parts mix in the > nozzle and when you're done, you release the trigger and let the product > cure in the nozzle tip. When you want to use it later, just change the > nozzle and start again. Extra nozzles are cheap. > > Chuck S > > > > On 02/17/2021 9:17 AM Matthew via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Ron: > > > > I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may try > the 3M mailing tape someone suggested. Also, if you are using West System, > before you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are > supposed to “wet” the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond. (The > exception is cotton filler, which is not as strong but will weep epoxy into > the surrounding area.) Wear a good filter mask when mixing colloidal > silica. > > > > Bigger, open holes are handled differently than bolt holes. For example, > when I replaced my deck fills last year (about a 2 inch open hole), first I > removed some of the wood deck core exposed by the hole. I could have > wetted the wood with a disposable paint brush -- I like the plastic > bristles, which do not fall off during application – but instead I decided > to tape the entire hole underneath with Gorilla tape. I then filled the > hole with epoxy, went down below and removed the tape while using a > container to catch the epoxy draining out, used the same epoxy for the > colloidal silica mix, then troweled the mix back into the deck core area > where the wood had been removed. There was no doubt about wetting the > surface using this method. The colloidal silica mix was a mayonnaise > consistency and did not need support underneath while it cured. When the > mixture cured, I used one of those round sanding drums that go into your > drill to smooth the cured surface, then installed the new deck fills. > > > > If you’re just doing bolt holes, on the other hand, no need for colloidal > silica and all that fuss – just tape underneath and pour straight West > System. Use the slow hardener, and MAKE SURE THE TAPE FULLY COVERS THE > HOLE AND IS ON FIRMLY (or you will have a big mess on your hands). You’ll > lose a little volume after the pour as the epoxy works its way into the > wood core. I usually go back and top it off. If you lose a lot of epoxy, > something is wrong – check the tape. If there is no leak at the tape, some > internal communication is going on. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Matt > > > > *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <[email protected]> > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 17, 2021 8:16 AM > *To:* 'Stus-List' <[email protected]> > *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck > > > > Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with thickened > epoxy. Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy for the > fastener. > > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS > > > > *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <[email protected]> > *Sent:* February 16, 2021 7:26 PM > *To:* Matthew via CnC-List <[email protected]> > *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck > > > > Do you do anything special to keep the epoxy in place until you can put > some tape under the glob? > > Ron > > Wild Cheri > > C&C 30-1 > > STL > > > > > > On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 01:31:10 PM CST, Matthew via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track, > a trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit > encounters the underside of the deck. The result is that the hole on the > deck surface stays the same size. In addition, you know precisely where to > place the deck fitting and drill the new hole. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - > Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu -- Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
