Chuck: I'd like a copy of your article please. I did my windows years ago using Plexus. That worked fine, but I have cracks in my windows, and I'd like to use 795 and do them again.
Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty trya...@alumni.usc.edu On Thu, Jul 17, 2025 at 7:55 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I know owners who had their window frames powder coated and they came out > beautiful. Made boat look brand new. > > I replaced our original frameless windows with acrylic and VHB tape and > Dow 795. I wrote up a Lessons Learned article you can find on Stu's > website: cncphotoalbum.com > > I can email my article to anyone interested also. > > Chuck S > > > > On 07/17/2025 8:42 AM EDT Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > > Nick in Vermont > > > > For a 1978 C&C the windows were normally installed using gaskets and > aluminum frames. Approx 1980 C&C went away from the gaskets. Looked > prettier but leaks were difficult to overcome (our family had 81 C&C 36). > > > > If you have aluminum frames follow the advice given re gaskets, etc … > > > > If you have the later frameless windows follow the advice given by Rob > Abbott and others for those. > > > > There are two different beats > > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax > > > > *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 16, 2025 8:29 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water > sealing > > > > Nick< My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a > significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place > without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and > the windows still look > > > > Nick< > > > > My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a > > significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in > > place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years > > ago and the windows still look like new with no issues. > > > > First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed > > the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and > > carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. > > > > I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a > > template to cut the 4 new windows. > > > > Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of > > the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave > > it as the adhesive will take care of it. > > > > At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and > > the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the > > Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 > > tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika > > 295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer. > > > > The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in > > the cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away > > where they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the new > > window where they will be mounted. > > > > I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is > > very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I > > applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as > > I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on > > the edge of each window itself. > > > > I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each > > window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces > > of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a > > 10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in > > place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing > > time with the moderate Spring temperature. > > > > I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before > > the adhesive started to cure. > > > > If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address > > the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, > > regardless of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, > > it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you > > are not prepared. > > > > Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a > > Sika adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they > > used was similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction > > of the 295 UV for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in > > the shop for 24 to 48 hours while it cures. > > > > Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature. > > > > Rob Abbott > > AZURA > > C&C 32 -84 > > Halifax, N.S. > > > > On 2025-07-16 2:50 p.m., Floersch.net via CnC-List wrote: > > > I’m a fairly new sailboat owner. > > > > > > My CNC34 (’78) needs the water sealing around the cabin windows re-done. It > > is not awful but there are certainly signs of age and deterioration and > > despite careful use, the spring power-washing cleaning showed that water > > could get through some of the edges of the windows. > > > > > > What is the best practice for re-sealing windows? > > > > > > Is there a particular caulk I use? Or do I use gaskets of some kind? > > > > > > I could take out the old windows and look at what was there, but I am not > > convinced the previous owners did it the right way either. So I’d like to > > know what is considered the current best approach? > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Nick in Vermont > > > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > > keep it active. 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