A vent in the main salon would be pretty nice… but we’re putting in USB rechargeable clamp fans to move air through… cheaper and easier than figuring out open-able windows or another vent.
> On Jul 16, 2025, at 8:57 PM, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Rob/Nick: > > The reason I asked Nick a question about the window style is that my > 1978 C&C 34 had the old-style screw-on oval windows, not the newer style "go > fast" windows (which I believe started in '79 or '80). The older windows had > an aluminum frame that simply screwed onto the side of the cabin. > Undoubtedly to address leaks, a PO of my boat decided to thru-bolt the frames > and made a fine mess of things. I decided to replace them with Lewmar > opening ports, which came in a size very close to the oval cut out. Lewmar > also makes (or at least made) a non-opening port of the same size. The issue > with the opening port is creating a flat surface on the curved side of the > cabin. My guru figured out how to do it, and the upgrade was great -- > especially given that my boat did not have a ventilation hatch in the main > salon. > > Matt > Erie, PA > C&C 42 Custom > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2025 7:29 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> > Subject: Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water > sealing > > Nick< > > My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a significant > curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place without a > frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and the windows > still look like new with no issues. > > First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed the > edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and carefully > with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. > > I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to > cut the 4 new windows. > > Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of the > gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave it as the > adhesive will take care of it. > > At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and the > Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the Sika Primer > and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 tubes (not all > of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika > 295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer. > > The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in the > cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away where > they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the new window where > they will be mounted. > > I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is very > dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I applied the > Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as I wanted it to > ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on the edge of each > window itself. > > I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each window > to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces of wood > against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a > 10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in place.....left the > braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing time with the moderate > Spring temperature. > > I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before the > adhesive started to cure. > > If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address the > curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, regardless > of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, it is more > labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you are not prepared. > > Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a Sika > adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they used was > similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction of the 295 UV > for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in the shop for 24 to 48 > hours while it cures. > > Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 -84 > Halifax, N.S. > > On 2025-07-16 2:50 p.m., Floersch.net via CnC-List wrote: >> I’m a fairly new sailboat owner. >> >> My CNC34 (’78) needs the water sealing around the cabin windows re-done. It >> is not awful but there are certainly signs of age and deterioration and >> despite careful use, the spring power-washing cleaning showed that water >> could get through some of the edges of the windows. >> >> What is the best practice for re-sealing windows? >> >> Is there a particular caulk I use? Or do I use gaskets of some kind? >> >> I could take out the old windows and look at what was there, but I am not >> convinced the previous owners did it the right way either. So I’d like to >> know what is considered the current best approach? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Nick in Vermont >> Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to >> keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: >> https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly >> appreciated. > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: > https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly > appreciated. > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: > https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly > appreciated. Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated.
