Thank you - you mean the aluminum was on the exterior or interior?

I’ll take a closer look next day I’m out.

Nick

> On Jul 17, 2025, at 8:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Nick in Vermont
>  
> For a 1978 C&C the windows were normally installed using gaskets and aluminum 
> frames.  Approx 1980 C&C went away from the gaskets.  Looked prettier but 
> leaks were difficult to overcome (our family had 81 C&C 36).
>  
> If you have aluminum frames follow the advice given re gaskets, etc …
>  
> If you have the later frameless windows follow the advice given by Rob Abbott 
> and others for those.
>  
> There are two different beats
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax
>  
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2025 8:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water 
> sealing
>  
> Nick< My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a 
> significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place 
> without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and the 
> windows still look
> Nick<
>  
> My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a 
> significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in 
> place without a frame, screws, bolts etc.  I completed the job 15 years 
> ago and the windows still look like new with no issues.
>  
> First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed 
> the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and 
> carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus.
>  
> I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a 
> template to cut the 4 new windows.
>  
> Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of 
> the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave 
> it as the adhesive will take care of it.
>  
> At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and 
> the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the 
> Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 
> tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube).  The Sika 
> 295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer.
>  
> The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in 
> the cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away 
> where they fit into the cabin side.  With sand paper, rough up the new 
> window where they will be mounted.
>  
> I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is 
> very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy.  I 
> applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as 
> I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on 
> the edge of each window itself.
>  
> I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each 
> window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces 
> of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a 
> 10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in 
> place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing 
> time with the moderate Spring temperature.
>  
> I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before 
> the adhesive started to cure.
>  
> If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address 
> the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, 
> regardless of cost.  While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, 
> it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you 
> are not prepared.
>  
> Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a 
> Sika adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they 
> used was similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction 
> of the 295 UV for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in 
> the shop for 24 to 48 hours while it cures.
>  
> Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature.
>  
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.
>  
> On 2025-07-16 2:50 p.m., Floersch.net <http://floersch.net/> via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> > I’m a fairly new sailboat owner.
> > 
> > My CNC34 (’78) needs the water sealing around the cabin windows re-done. It 
> > is not awful but there are certainly signs of age and deterioration and 
> > despite careful use, the spring power-washing cleaning showed that water 
> > could get through some of the edges of the windows.
> > 
> > What is the best practice for re-sealing windows?
> > 
> > Is there a particular caulk I use? Or do I use gaskets of some kind?
> > 
> > I could take out the old windows and look at what was there, but I am not 
> > convinced the previous owners did it the right way either. So I’d like to 
> > know what is considered the current best approach?
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > Nick in Vermont
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