Thank you - you mean the aluminum was on the exterior or interior? I’ll take a closer look next day I’m out.
Nick > On Jul 17, 2025, at 8:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Nick in Vermont > > For a 1978 C&C the windows were normally installed using gaskets and aluminum > frames. Approx 1980 C&C went away from the gaskets. Looked prettier but > leaks were difficult to overcome (our family had 81 C&C 36). > > If you have aluminum frames follow the advice given re gaskets, etc … > > If you have the later frameless windows follow the advice given by Rob Abbott > and others for those. > > There are two different beats > > Mike Hoyt > Persistence > Halifax > > From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2025 8:29 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> > Subject: Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water > sealing > > Nick< My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a > significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place > without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and the > windows still look > Nick< > > My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a > significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in > place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years > ago and the windows still look like new with no issues. > > First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed > the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and > carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. > > I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a > template to cut the 4 new windows. > > Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of > the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave > it as the adhesive will take care of it. > > At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and > the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the > Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 > tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika > 295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer. > > The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in > the cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away > where they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the new > window where they will be mounted. > > I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is > very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I > applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as > I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on > the edge of each window itself. > > I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each > window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces > of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a > 10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in > place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing > time with the moderate Spring temperature. > > I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before > the adhesive started to cure. > > If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address > the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, > regardless of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, > it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you > are not prepared. > > Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a > Sika adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they > used was similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction > of the 295 UV for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in > the shop for 24 to 48 hours while it cures. > > Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 -84 > Halifax, N.S. > > On 2025-07-16 2:50 p.m., Floersch.net <http://floersch.net/> via CnC-List > wrote: > > I’m a fairly new sailboat owner. > > > > My CNC34 (’78) needs the water sealing around the cabin windows re-done. It > > is not awful but there are certainly signs of age and deterioration and > > despite careful use, the spring power-washing cleaning showed that water > > could get through some of the edges of the windows. > > > > What is the best practice for re-sealing windows? > > > > Is there a particular caulk I use? Or do I use gaskets of some kind? > > > > I could take out the old windows and look at what was there, but I am not > > convinced the previous owners did it the right way either. So I’d like to > > know what is considered the current best approach? > > > > Thanks! > > > > Nick in Vermont > > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > > keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal > > at: > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray__;!!CmXilJi6!aWVQrLug13MmxNVQcB_Rqh3T2yCnuUQwqnMKBwqpNoyZpmUpHZRTn_LMoDSGAUICSODf3U9gHacEKvkR_YCe2Q$ > > > > <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https:/www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray__;!!CmXilJi6!aWVQrLug13MmxNVQcB_Rqh3T2yCnuUQwqnMKBwqpNoyZpmUpHZRTn_LMoDSGAUICSODf3U9gHacEKvkR_YCe2Q$> > > All contributions are greatly appreciated. > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > keep it active. 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Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated.