Most likely, the AC inverter built into the car does not produce a sine
wave, and your radio probably won't like it.
You could just connect some heavy wire, with a fuse, directly to the
battery terminals, and run the radio on that. However, car batteries
don't deep cycle well at all, and there's the chance of not being able
to get the engine started. You can buy a small, 30 AH deep cycle
battery, which will run a 100W radio for some hours of normal
operation. A voltage booster will step the voltage up to 13.8 V, so the
transmitter will operate at full power. One big advantage of the
separate battery is that you can carry it a ways from the parking lot if
you have to.
Charging the battery from the vehicle is a bit tricky, though. You can't
just connect it in parallel with the vehicle battery, as the alternator
will charge it at much to high a current. I was unable to find an
affordable commercial device that could safely charge such a battery
from the vehicle. One could build a current limiter, but it would take
some effort. For me, the path of least resistance was to buy a 120V
battery charger, and run it on a 150W sine wave inverter I already had.
(Using the above connections to the vehicle battery; that's a bit much
for the cigarette lighter plug.) Such a charger may or may not work
with the built in inverter in the vehicle.
73,
Scott K9MA
On 10/8/2017 22:19, Dauer, Edward wrote:
Previous threads provided a great deal of info about arranging automobile
electrical systems to power HF rigs. But as I recall, it all focused on using
the battery / alternator supply for the 13 VDC. Though I wanted to go mobile
and still do, for a number of reasons I could not configure my car to do it
properly. I am now thinking of buying a new SUV which has 117 VAC outlets in
its rear cargo space. That makes me wonder – could I just use an ordinary 117
VAC to 13 VDC power supply, exactly as I do at home, just plug it in and –
staying within the car’s rated current draw – operate without worrying about
where the ground goes vis-à-vis the battery, what-all needs to be bonded with
what-all-else, how everything needs to be mummified in ferrite, etc? Or are
the problems all the same even though different? My objective is simple. I
want to be able to drive to a rare county, set up my buddipole in a parking
lot, and use either a XX3/KXPA or a K2/100 to knock out some CW QSOs. I do NOT
want to take an electric drill or a rivet gun to a new car.
Has anyone gone mobile using a car’s 117 VAC outlets? Any thoughts to share?
Any thoughts from anyone who for any reason hasn’t done it?
Ted, KN1CBR (operating this week as N0A in the NAQCC anniversary event. Give
a call if you hear me. Mostly 20 or 40 CW)
Tnx.
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [email protected]
--
Scott K9MA
[email protected]
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [email protected]