I have a KX3 with the KXAT3, KXBC3, KXFL3, and KXPA100. I put the SideKX
side panels on it, and got the SideKX RAM mount adapters for the radio and
the panadapter. I took the batteries out of the KXBC3 after they kept me
from doing a firmware update properly. If you run into a problem with the
update, the solution is to shut down all power to the radio so it'll reset
-- but the internal batteries will keep it from doing this. To properly
shut it all the way down, you have to remove the batteries. Well, I'd
forgotten about that, and was pulling my hair, thinking I'd bricked the
poor thing! When I figured it out, I was so relieved, I had to sit down and
have a relief cry.
It's a wonderful radio, so much so, I'm reluctant to use it in the field,
for fear a dog will pee on it, or a meteor will slam into it, or something
else that'll break it. When I need something similar in function, I'll use
my IQ32, because frankly, I care a lot less if it gets broken or stolen.
Others may not have my concerns, though, and might be able to rationalize
taking the KX3 into the field on a regular basis, perhaps as a YOLO issue.
I love my KX3 far too much to risk it unnecessarily!
I don't use the Elecraft paddles, though. I do have the minimalist kit from
QRP Guys that will screw onto that port, but I don't like using it.
Instead, I built a little box that lets me plug in two mechanical keys and
two paddles, running the mechanical keys (Cootie, bug, straight key, etc.)
through the 2x2 header meant for the Elecraft paddle. I even use the same
thumbscrews to hold the box to the bottom of the rig. It's very convenient,
and if, say, I want to switch my W1SFR Torsion Bar Cootie Paddle from
paddle to cootie mode, I just move the plug on its cable to one of the
mechanical key jacks on the box instead of one of the paddle jacks, and
it's instantly in cootie mode. I keep meaning to write something up about
that box, but I keep forgetting.
If you get a KX3, you'll love it. I bought it and the PX3, then two weeks
later I ordered the KXPA100. I ordered the Powerwerx power supply that was
recommended at the time, and it works beautifully.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73,
Gwen, NG3P
On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 2:16 PM Julia Tuttle <ju...@juliatuttle.net> wrote:
Hey Glen,
Here's my take on KX3 options and such:
KXAT3 is absolutely worth it. It will tune *anything* and is super easy
to
use. (Looking at you, Icom, where pushing the button turns the tuner on
and
off and you have to hold it to run a tuning cycle.)
KXBC3 is okay. I use the NiMHs more like a backup, for things like moving
the radio around while it's on or temporarily unplugging the power supply
to avoid some RFI. If you actually want to operate off battery seriously,
I'd get an external lithium ion battery from Bioenno.
(Do not trust the RTC in the KXBC3; it has been terribly inaccurate in my
experience, and even a $10 wristwatch would do better. You might get some
use out of it if you make sure to set it every time you sat down to
operate
and you really don't want a separate clock.)
I don't have the KX3-2M, but I wouldn't consider it myself based on the
low
power output. If you want to do specialized VHF work, and you're willing
to
throw an external amp at it, you might want it.
I don't have the KXFL3, but I'm a casual enough operator that I'm not
sure
I'd be able to speak to the benefits anyway.
Not options in the same sense, but some other Elecraft accessories:
KXPD3 is great. It doesn't hold a candle to external paddles made by
companies that specialize in them, but it is unbeatable in compactness
and
convenience.
PX3 is good. It's integrated with the KX3 well, and if you've used and
liked a panadapter before, this will make you happy. My only nit is that
the hardware integration is cluttered (power to both the KX3 and PX3,
ACC1
serial between the two, and RX I/Q signals between the two).
I don't have the KXPA100, but I've heard it's also integrated well and
is a
solid amp. Big downside is the price; last I checked, you can spend about
half as much and get the same functionality if you don't need the right
Integration. Nonetheless, if I did want a 100W amp for my KX3, I'd
splurge
and get it.
And some third party accessories:
SideKX side panels (and cover) from GEMS Products are, in my opinion,
mandatory. I am much comfier throwing my KX3 in a backpack with them.
They
do make the front panel slightly more cramped, but it's worth it to me.
PAE-KX32 heatsink from Pro Audio Engineering is, as Eric said, great if
you
want to run the KX3 at full power out and 100% duty cycle for digital
modes. Not necessary, but makes a noticeable improvement, especially if
you
point a small fan at it.
PAE-KX33 power supply from PAE works, packs much smaller than a desktop
power supply, and hasn't caused any RFI problems for me. Worth it if
you're
going to be travelling to places with mains power but no existing shack
power supply to borrow.
Hope the wall of text helps! Questions welcome if you've got any.
73,
Julie
On Mon, May 2, 2022, 12:48 Eric Garner <garn...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a KX3 fully loaded (KXFL3, KXAT3, KXBC3, KX3-2M) the only one I
would skip if I had to do it over is the KXBC3. The NiMH batteries just
don't have the oomph to justify adding them for me and having the RTC
doesn't really matter to me, your needs might be different. I just use
an
external LiFePO4 pack for power.
The Pro Audio Engineering heatsink addon (
https://proaudioeng.com/oos-pae-kx32-ultimate-heatsink-kit-elecraft-kx3/
)
is nice if you will be running digimodes without an external amplifier.
Eric KI7LTT
On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 9:31 AM Glen Reid <greid...@gmail.com> wrote:
I am contemplating the purchase of a KX3. Looking for input from
users
on
which options I should consider.
Thanks es 73
gr
K5FX
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_________________________________________
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