Garbage in, garbage out. 


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On Thu, 7/2/15, John Barnes <[email protected]> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [PSES] Off Topic - Warranty Question
 To: [email protected]
 Date: Thursday, July 2, 2015, 12:49 AM
 
 Scott,
 With the change-over to lead-free electronics-- forced by
 the European
 Union's RoHS Directive which took effect on July 1, 2006-- I
 saw the
 manufacturers' warranties for many electronic products
 plummet from
 several years down to 3 months to 1 year....  And I
 heard from some of
 my clients who bought computers and related equipment for
 their
 companies, that many of these new "RoHS-Compatible"
 electronics would
 start having massive failures after just 13 to 14 months of
 use.
 
 Personally, I cut way back (to about 20-25% of my previous
 level) on my
 electronics purchases right after the post-Christmas sales
 in 1995--
 when I bought a laptop computer and other stuff that I
 *hoped* was built
 with good, tin-lead solder (and I'm still using some of
 these products
 today!)  Now, if I'm buying something inexpensive like
 LED flashlights
 or Arduino boards, I'll usually buy at least 3 at a crack in
 the hope
 that at least one will still work when I need it.  If
 I'm buying
 expensive electronics, like a computer monitor, I'll spend
 about 1 day
 doing research for every $100 that I expect to spend. 
 And when I come
 down to the short-list of products that will meet my needs,
 a long
 manufacturer's warranty period will be THE major factor in
 what I buy.
 
 I also have about 60 to 70 pounds of tin-lead solder saved
 up, of
 various diameters and fluxes, to fix my old electronics when
 they break
 after 20+ years of service.
 
 Since late 2004 I've collected well over 22,500 documents on
 lead-free
 electronics-- see my bibliographies at:
 *  http://www.dbicorporation.com/rohsbib.htmhttp://www.dbicorporation.com/whiskbib.htmhttp://www.dbicorporation.com/tinpest.htm
 and I *still* don't trust lead-free, RoHS-Compliant
 electronics for
 quality, reliability, or longevity.  
 
 I recommend to my friends that if they buy new electronics
 of any
 significant cost, that they:
 1.  Buy them at a local store.
 2.  Have a clerk/tech at the store take the product out
 of the box,
     power it up, and *prove* that this specific
 unit comes up 
     completely before they buy it.
 
 John Barnes
 Lexington, KY
 author of Robust Electronic Design Reference Book, Volumes I
 and II
 
 -
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