Is a single turn pot ok or does it really need to be a ten turn or 
whatever it is?

Most of the welder I know are very "seat of the pants type" of guys.  I 
seriously doubt if they ever look at the meters.

Not hot enough turn it up.   Too hot.. turn it down.   Can't get it hot 
enough.. get a different welder.
They know when the welder is malfunctioning when it can't do what it was 
doing the day before.  :-)

I do a fair amount of welding.  Mostly stick and flux cored wire since 
they are usually outdoor repairs.
The more I weld, the more I find myself ignoring the knobs and doing the 
same thing.
It has taken several years, but I am finally comfortable doing overhead 
welding.   I thought I would never get there!

Dave

On 11/22/2010 12:29 PM, Kirk Wallace wrote:
> On Mon, 2010-11-22 at 10:57 -0500, Dave wrote:
> ... snip
>    
>> I have a Hobart Cyber-TIG also.   It works but the current control pot
>> on the front needs to be replaced as it is flaky.
>>      
> I replaced mine with a temporary single turn potentiometer. The original
> was intermittent so I took it apart:
> http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Hobart_Cyber-TIG/00014-1a.jpg
>
> It turns out that there is a hair thin wire bonded to a screw that
> mounts a solder lug to the side of the pot. If you take the screw out
> you break the wire and the unit is ruined. Every once in a while these
> pots come up on eBay, but it can take time to find one that matches.
>
>    
>> I have the single phase version and it is the most powerful single phase
>> welder I have ever used.    I've only used it for stick welding so far,
>> but I have a tig torch setup for it also.
>>
>> They don't make them like that anymore!   I have no idea if the meters
>> on the unit even work as I really can't look at them while it is in use
>> also.
>>
>> Dave
>>      
> In going through the schematics, I found an adjustment procedure for the
> Max and Min current setting, where the WORK and ELECTRODE terminals are
> shorted. Then, with HF off,and the current switched on (press foot
> pedal), the ammeter should sweep up to match the set current. Changing
> the Weld Current knob should change the ammeter reading (3 to Max Amps,
> try with Remote switch On and Off). If you remove the WORK clamp and
> press the pedal, the voltage meter should indicate full voltage of about
> 85 Volts. I am thinking these tests might come in handy for setting up a
> weld, but it would be better to talk to someone that has used one of
> these for a living.
>    


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