On Monday 02 September 2013 15:47:32 andy pugh did opine:

> On 2 September 2013 18:44, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com> wrote:
> > Could the oil seal be incorporated into the bearing replacement by
> > giving the outer race of the bearing a coat of whatever they use on
> > the outside of an oil seal and putting in a bearing with a decent lip
> > type seal?
> 
> Not easily, these are quite exotic taper-roller bearings.
> (Hand-engraved serial numbers on both halves).
> 
> > Then I'd just run it full of the oil by adding a spring loaded lid oil
> > cup just below the top bearing
> 
> And it doesn't run full of oil, it has an internal bevel drive and the
> oil level mark is only a couple of inches from the bottom.
> 
> You can see the oil sight-glass here:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vcfDADDvrMLWErEmrEnm69MTjNZETYmyPJ
> y0liipFm0?feat=directlink

ISWYM.  Is the bottom I can't see, flat and clean enough once the paint is 
zapped away, that a plate with an oil seal could be attached?  Even a rough 
casting should seal fairly well with an o-ring groove that crushed the 
ring, actually leaving a feeler blade clearance when snugged up.  I'm also 
assuming sufficient smooth spindle projecting below so that there is room 
for the seal to ride without undue wear. It should be polished, but not 
such a high polish that there is nothing left to carry a film of oil to all 
the contact surfaces of the seal.  A hard Arkansas stone while its spinning 
might be in order to at least wear off the sharp edges of any scratches and 
or tool marks.  Even at that machines vintage, I am surprised there isn't a 
seal, on both ends since that is a rotating head, it could just as easily 
run out the "top" when tipped horizontal.
God luck & take pix please.
 
Cheers, Gene
-- 
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