Hi all;
I have a bracket of sorts about half made, two pieces of 1/8"x1" strap, with about 5/8" of each end bent over at about 90 degrees. One piece is about 3/4" long, and that leg is drilled for a pair of 6x1 bolts which will be used to bolt it to the base of the bed, more of less under the left end of the countershaft frame as seen thru a hole in the casting intended to get all the wiring to the OEM motor in and out of the plastic box screwed to the front of the bed which still contains the old controller, but the wiring now goes only to the motor power switch on top of the box. I am thinking of welding or just bolting, a good hard 3/8 or 7/16 bolt, which will reach thru this wiring hole and pull down on that end of the counter shaft frame, but the hole isn't quite big enough to really do it right. So my question, seeing as how that will open the casting a bit, is: Can I grab a 1/8" mill in the dremel, and expand that hole to the left about 1/4" without weakening or warping the casting? FWIW, the Union Tool Co. level says the bed angle, high in front because the v-way is sticking up, is sitting at 175.5 degrees on both ends of the bed, so if it is warped, its not enough that I can actually measure. I thought it had a vernier scale, but I guess not. The long leg of this strap will have a short piece of this 1/8" bolted across the outside face of it so it cannot back out of the hole. The two pieces will have a 6mmx1 draw bolt to pull the longer, upper leg down, which is carrying the bolt reaching thru this wiring access hole. But the first thing I need to do is go get a decent 1/4" chuck, and make me an extension about a foot long for the drill so I can drill straight into the casting, and tap it too, at as close to perpendicular as I can get. My smallest drill is too fat bodied and is held at about a 10 degree angle by the mounting board. I'd head out to get that chuck at Lowes right now, but the car is gone, and the GMC was just delivered to a body shop for rust repairs, they couldn't put a fresh sticker on it... Down to one set of wheels is a PITA. :( Another thought would be to drill another nominally 3/4" hole, below and left of this one, which would let me reach in, and drill/tap a 5/16-18 hole for a 5/16" cap screw in the counter shaft's left frame. That counter shaft frame is hard (works like 7078-T6) 1/2" thick alu, and I can bury at least 1/2" of that cap screw in it before it even thinks of hitting the shaft bearing. If I don't have to dismount the z screw to install the cap screw. OTOH, I'll have to dismount it anyway just to stick a uni-bit in to drill the hole. Good excuse to take the rest of the end play out of that bearing assembly, no? ;-) Cheers, Gene -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> US V Castleman, SCOTUS, Mar 2014 is grounds for Impeaching SCOTUS ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Is your legacy SCM system holding you back? Join Perforce May 7 to find out: • 3 signs your SCM is hindering your productivity • Requirements for releasing software faster • Expert tips and advice for migrating your SCM now http://p.sf.net/sfu/perforce _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
