On 5/11/2015 9:07 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>
> Not since I put homing switches on it. What I am doing now is the auto
> home, where the x switch is on the front of the saddle set at about .1mm
> from the max out travel of a hair over 67mm.  The switch will not be
> damaged if it comes all the way to the end of the slot in the carriage.
> >From the [AXIS 0] ini file:
>
> MIN_LIMIT = -2.5
> MAX_LIMIT = 67.0
> HOME_OFFSET = 67.783
> Those are stated in radius.
> So the bring up procedure is to do an autohome without a tool mounted as
> the x will be zero'd & left at switch open, which gives clearance even
> with a workpiece mounted, for it to go left and find the z switch which
> is about 57mm from hitting the chuck.  And it parks about 25mm to the
> right of the switch.  Since I had already cut the rust off the
> workpiece, I next drive the mounted tool so that it is sitting in gentle
> contact with the left end of that cut, touch-off z to 0.0, and measure
> the OD, in this case 32.3mm, and touch off x, redoing it if the DRO
> diameter isn't correct.  The DRO diameter was showing 32.30.

Just wondering why you have such a large HOME_OFFSET, usually you only 
need enough to get off the switch unless you home like Andy and then you 
don't need any HOME_OFFSET.

>> I think you might need to do some tool-changing, jogging about and
>> switching between modes to see where you are (and also check the tool
>> table entries).
> Tool table not involved, default arrow showing in the backplot.
>
> For me to make use of the tool table, I've have to get another $200 in
> tool holders so I could permanently mount and measure them all.  I only
> have the basic kit of the smallish steel one. OXA series IIRC.  Each
> holder is about $14 and I'd need another half a dozen, and the boring
> bar holder is $22 & I'd need about half a dozen of those.  My BIG bar is
> a 5/8 diameter that I made a clamp for, but that also leads to buying &
> fitting more compound-slides as it can and has ripped threads out of the
> top, 10mm threads.  I have been tempted to replace the compound with a
> steel square of the same height but haven't found my round tuit for tht
> job yet.   Its (the OXA) about 10x more rigid that the alu versions that
> use the push button driven by a cam to lock a fixed V. The OXA moves the
> wedge up and down on a ramp on one side, much better grip.

On my CHNC I have an 8 station turret, I have many more tools than fits 
on the turret. I just keep the most used tools mounted and touched off 
on my turret. When I need a different one I "load" the tool in LCNC with 
TnM6G43 then proceed to touch off the Z to the face of my spindle 
(making sure that I touch off the tool table and I'm not in G54 so no 
offset is added) and the X to some material that I can cut a bit and 
measure the diameter then touch it off. I use tool 1 as my master tool 
and touch off the G54 Z offset with that. That shifts the Z for ALL the 
tools in the tool table. You can do the same with your OXA so long as 
you don't move the base.

One advantage to using the tool table is you only have to touch off the 
Z in the G54 coordinate system to the material for one tool. Another 
advantage is you can specify the tool orientation and control point 
which is used by tool diameter offset.

>
>> The "exceeds limits" thing can probably be cleared by touching off
>> again to the right diameter in the right mode.
> I'm going to give it another shot later today, but with the whole
> toolpost on the table beside the keyboard this time.  But first I need
> to take the owners manual and go see if I can find a deck drive belt
> thats about an inch shorter for my 23 yo Craftsman rider.  Its an MTD
> under the paint of course, but by the time the deck is leveled ack the
> book, the belt tends to come off, climbing above the engine pulley when
> disengaging.  And its a right pain in the ass to restring the thing if
> you don't have a lift that lets you work from the bottom. I think by now
> the pulleys (and deck suspension stuff) are worn bad enough an inch
> shorter belt is the cure.

Amazon is your friend for mower idlers and spindles... I just replaced 
all my spindles and blades for $125 on my not so old Craftsman mower 
which I'll never buy one again. My antique 8hp Craftsman is much better 
built.

> That and call Orkin to get rid of a termite nest in the underpinnings of
> my shops front deck we found late Friday night while replacing the dry
> rotted flooring.
>
> First things first IOW.
>
> Thanks Andy.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett


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