Thanks for the ideas again. If I really understood what the controller was doing, there would probably be only a few possible problems that could cause it to work for 40 seconds, then quit. Maybe it is a heat problem, not that the entire thing is over-heating, but that some small component is over-heating and tripping the thermistor. Once it cools off, I can go again.
The only other thought I had that could be transient like this is some kind of voltage build up or leakage ... but I don't know how that would prevent operation. I don't know if it matters, but I decided since I wasn't using the A2 terminal, that I would just take it off - so I did that, along with the copper shield that connects to the three doides on the side. But, maybe it's not that simple ... I will try some other tests from the Curtis manual and probably pull it to do some higher load tests ... Dan ----- Dan Gallagher http://www.evalbum.com/3854 -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Curtis-Controller-Popped-tp4660481p4661039.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
