I pulled the controller last night, got out a good magnifying glass and inspected my solder joints again - they looked pretty solid. Besides, since those there were only two bad MOSFETs, I wouldn't think a bad solder joint there would stop the controller completely (it was working as usual immediately after the initial MOSFET explosion).
In the process of extracting the controller from the case I did damage the edge of the controller board a little bit. I think it's just cosmetic and there are no loose solder joints on it ... but I didn't know how to actually remove the controller board to look more closely at it and do some other tests. Do I have to de-solder the 7 prongs that attach it to the power board, or is there some other way to disconnect the control board from the power board? I have been reading the Curtis manual suggestions and trying my best to decypher the Curtis wiring diagram in the library here (and it has helped), so it's great to have all these resources and comments. Thanks again a lot! ----- Dan Gallagher http://www.evalbum.com/3854 -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Curtis-Controller-Popped-tp4660481p4661086.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
