On Mar 23, 2013, at 9:05 AM, jerry freedomev <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Hi Bruce, Tom and All, > > Thanks for the help guys. > Just what I was looking for. > > So I assume the > resistor/diode handshake trick is no longer good enough? It is still sufficient, however, if you pull the plug while charging your car won't sense that and stop drawing power. If you implement the J1772 right, you should be able to stop the charger from charging as soon as the user goes to unplug by detecting when the user pushes down on the button to pull out the plug. IMHO, this is much safer than the designs that require more manual work, such as stopping your charger (or turning down the power that it is drawing), flipping a switch to change the resistor/diode combo (turning off the EVSE contactor), and then unplugging. Why do all that when you can write some software to do it? corbin > > For Tom my new EV is > powered by an old Citi-car motor , charged with the Citi-car charger that I > used in the 3wh Ewoody . Or as Bob Rice use to call, the Lumberghini ;^P > > I'll probably put the > inlet under the body in front and an Anderson 50amp DC connector in the rear > for 120vac charging and the range extender if fast charging isn't available. > > > Thanks, > > Jerry Dycus > > > > ________________________________ > From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[email protected]> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]> > Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 4:24 AM > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Best J1772 deal, adding a public level-2 charging ability > >> I purchased the J1772 inlet and vehicle-side control board from Modular >> EV Power for about $150. > > [ref > http://modularevpower.com/ > Modular EV Power > ] > > This looks like what Tom bought: > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/J1772-UL-75-Amp-Vehicle-Inlet-AND-AVC2-module-/251244113764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f50ef64 > J1772 UL 75 Amp Vehicle Inlet AND AVC2 module > > > Jerry mentioned that he wants to keep cost down, so perhaps nice looking > door, a ugly but functional design would be to mount the inlet on a > strong part of the body, and just use a cheap dust cap to protect the > protruding j1772 inlet when not plugged in > http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=559 > > http://www.amazon.com/QC-101-Fernco-1-1-Flexible-Cap/dp/B002KHZCMC > QC-101 Fernco 1-1/2" Flexible Cap > > > {brucedp.150m.com} > > > - > On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, at 09:48 PM, Tom Keenan wrote: >> To add J1772 Level 2 capability to my old Citicar, it required three >> items - a 240v charger, a J1772 inlet, and a vehicle-side control board. >> >> Since I also wanted to use 120v at times, the charger needed to be >> multi-volt capable. I used an ElCon 2500 charger (2.5 kW, 90 to 250v >> input). This charger was about $700. >> >> I purchased the J1772 inlet and vehicle-side control board from Modular >> EV Power for about $150. >> >> Wiring the charger to the inlet is straightforward. Wiring the control >> board to the vehicle / J1772 inlet is easy as well. Hardest part is >> deciding where to mount the inlet, and making some sort of door to cover >> it when not in use. >> >> The Citicar went from a 120v only, 1.4 kW charger (about 4 miles of >> charge per hour of charging) to a 120 - 240v, J1772 capable 2.5 kW >> charging system (about 10 miles of charge per hour of charging). >> >> I'll be doing much the same when I upgrade the charger in my present EV. > - > > > - > On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, at 06:51 PM, jerry freedomev wrote: >> I'm going to need to use the public charge stations soon for fast charging. >> They are well spread now in central Fla, at least from St Pete to >> Jacksonville on I-4 and I-95 but many don't have 120vac. So I've come >> up to the one thing I can't make cheaply, the EV side of a J1772 . >> >> So what do I need and where is a good/best place to get it as low cost as >> possible? >> >> I've been happy with 120vac for my very lightweight EV's around town but now >> I want to travel long distance and keep charging to 85% flooded lead in >> around 30 minutes to an hour. Since the normal 70% charge from 15% is only >> 3-4kwhr it shouldn't be too hard. I have 1 2kw unit now plus a 1kw >> regulated and will add another 2-3kw later. >> >> Trying to do this and keep the weight, cost down, the Streamliner only >> weighs 700lbs or so, isn't easy so likely do non isolated ones next just >> using inductors instead of transformers. Thanks, Jerry Dycus > - > > -- > http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop worrying and > love email again > > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130323/c80f8da5/attachment.htm> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
