Hi Jerry,
Here's the spec:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772

That tells you what size resistors to use. 

-corbin

On Mar 23, 2013, at 5:36 PM, jerry freedomev <[email protected]> wrote:

>  
>                                  Hi Corbin and All,
>  
>                                           I rather like flipping switches so 
> the problems mentioned are not much for me to handle.  Does anyone know where 
> a diagram of hooking up and what size resistor, diode to use?
>  
>                                            Those who know me know I always 
> like the most simple, least likely to fail, fast to repair, lowest cost.  
> I'll incorporate a timer in it and maybe a latching relay to cut off at 85% 
> full  charge voltage.
>  
>                                                                    Thanks,
>                                                                         Jerry 
> Dycus
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: corbin dunn <[email protected]>
> To: jerry freedomev <[email protected]>; Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
> <[email protected]> 
> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 1:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Save, Best J1772 deal, adding a public level-2 charging 
> ability
> 
> 
> On Mar 23, 2013, at 9:05 AM, jerry freedomev <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>>   
>>                                     Hi Bruce, Tom and All,
>>   
>>                                                   Thanks for the help guys.  
>> Just what I was looking for.
>>   
>>                                                    So I assume the 
>> resistor/diode handshake trick is no longer good enough?
> 
> It is still sufficient, however, if you pull the plug while charging your car 
> won't sense that and stop drawing power. If you implement the J1772 right, 
> you should be able to stop the charger from charging as soon as the user goes 
> to unplug by detecting when the user pushes down on the button to pull out 
> the plug. IMHO, this is much safer than the designs that require more manual 
> work, such as stopping your charger (or turning down the power that it is 
> drawing), flipping a switch to change the resistor/diode combo (turning off 
> the EVSE contactor), and then unplugging. Why do all that when you can write 
> some software to do it?
> 
> corbin
> 
>>   
>>                                                     For Tom my new EV is 
>> powered by an old Citi-car motor , charged with the Citi-car charger that I 
>> used in the 3wh Ewoody . Or as Bob Rice use to call, the Lumberghini  ;^P
>>   
>>                                                     I'll probably put the 
>> inlet under the body in front and an Anderson 50amp DC connector in the rear 
>> for 120vac charging and the range extender if fast charging isn't available.
>>   
>>                                                                           
>> Thanks,
>>                                                                              
>>     Jerry Dycus
>>   
>>                                               
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[email protected]>
>> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]> 
>> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 4:24 AM
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Best J1772 deal, adding a public level-2 charging ability
>> 
>>> I purchased the J1772 inlet and vehicle-side control board from Modular
>>> EV Power for about $150.
>> 
>> [ref
>> http://modularevpower.com/
>> Modular EV Power
>> ]
>> 
>> This looks like what Tom bought:
>> 
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/J1772-UL-75-Amp-Vehicle-Inlet-AND-AVC2-module-/251244113764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f50ef64
>> J1772 UL 75 Amp Vehicle Inlet AND AVC2 module
>> 
>> 
>> Jerry mentioned that he wants to keep cost down, so perhaps nice looking
>> door, a ugly but functional design would be to mount the inlet on a
>> strong part of the body, and just use a cheap dust cap to protect the
>> protruding j1772 inlet when not plugged in
>> http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=559
>> 
>> http://www.amazon.com/QC-101-Fernco-1-1-Flexible-Cap/dp/B002KHZCMC
>> QC-101 Fernco 1-1/2" Flexible Cap
>> 
>> 
>> {brucedp.150m.com}
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, at 09:48 PM, Tom Keenan wrote:
>>> To add J1772 Level 2 capability to my old Citicar, it required three
>>> items - a 240v charger, a J1772 inlet, and a vehicle-side control board.
>>> 
>>> Since I also wanted to use 120v at times, the charger needed to be
>>> multi-volt capable.  I used an ElCon 2500 charger (2.5 kW, 90 to 250v
>>> input).  This charger was about $700.
>>> 
>>> I purchased the J1772 inlet and vehicle-side control board from Modular
>>> EV Power for about $150.
>>> 
>>> Wiring the charger to the inlet is straightforward.  Wiring the control
>>> board to the vehicle / J1772 inlet is easy as well.  Hardest part is
>>> deciding where to mount the inlet, and making some sort of door to cover
>>> it when not in use.
>>> 
>>> The Citicar went from a 120v only, 1.4 kW charger (about 4 miles of
>>> charge per hour of charging) to a 120 - 240v, J1772 capable 2.5 kW
>>> charging system (about 10 miles of charge per hour of charging).
>>> 
>>> I'll be doing much the same when I upgrade the charger in my present EV.
>> -
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, at 06:51 PM, jerry freedomev wrote:
>>> I'm going to need to use the public charge stations soon for fast charging. 
>>>   They are well spread now in central Fla, at least from St Pete to 
>>> Jacksonville  on I-4 and I-95 but many don't have 120vac.      So I've come 
>>> up to the one thing I can't make cheaply, the EV side of a J1772 . 
>>>   
>>> So what do I need and where is a good/best place to get it as low cost as 
>>> possible? 
>>>   
>>> I've been happy with 120vac for my very lightweight EV's around town but 
>>> now I want to travel long distance and keep charging to 85% flooded lead in 
>>> around 30 minutes to an hour.  Since the normal 70% charge  from 15% is 
>>> only 3-4kwhr  it shouldn't be too hard.  I have 1  2kw unit now plus a 1kw 
>>> regulated and will add another 2-3kw later. 
>>>   
>>> Trying to do this and keep the weight, cost down, the Streamliner only 
>>> weighs 700lbs or so, isn't easy so likely do non isolated ones next just 
>>> using inductors instead of transformers.    Thanks,    Jerry Dycus
>> - 
>> 
>> -- 
>> http://www.fastmail.fm/ - Or how I learned to stop worrying and
>>                            love email again
>> 
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