Thanks Lee. http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/elec.shtml has a picture of the fuses that came with my parts kit. The links are mounted on a fiber piece and covered by a clear tube to contain the slag/splatter. I don't think I will be buying another one like that. Breakers are definitely going to be in a box! Maybe I should just run a jumper between the two boxes in the engine compartment and put the breakers in the middle of the one that does not have a fuse.
I do have 2 NM conduits inside the heater tube for the 2 1AWG wires between the front and rear and a 3rd for the 6AWG wires bringing negative up front for the heater and positive back to the DC-DC. That's on the driver's side, the pass side is all low voltage wires. 12V for the interlock relay, charger shutoff, BMS connections, etc. I would like to find a cheaper alternative to using the 150A Gigavac contactors but have yet to find a relay that's good for a 10A load @ 200VDC. DP would be nice too, but putting pack voltage across adjacent terminals does not sound like a good idea either. I am going to use 2 of them for the charger which can supply 30A, I can always upgrade it later without worrying about the contactor ratings. On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote: > Mike Scott wrote: > >> "...It needs to be in UL listed conduit, and treated just like you'd treat >> the service entrance wiring for your home." >> >> I'm running the HV wires through the ex heater channels which end right >> behind the little radio speaker down in the footwell. I used a big PVC >> pipe >> cap that fit perfectly on the stub of 3" (or so) tubing. I was able to fit >> 3 pieces 1/2" NM watertite conduit onto the pipe cap, those run up into >> the >> front trunk where the batteries are. >> > > It sound like you're on the right track. Keep in mind that the car > companies don't bother with UL testing, and frequently use combustible > plastics. If an electrical fire ever starts, it will set the entire dash on > fire. > > So, if you're going to use existing ductwork as a "tunnel" to pull wires > through, be sure those wires have two independent layers of insulation. It > could be double-insulated cords, like a typical round AC line cord, with > both individual insulation on each wire, and a separate outside jacket of > insulation. Or, it could be a piece of flexible or rigid metal or plastic > conduit, with the wires pulled through it. > > > I did get a little uncomfortable with the breaker mounted there with it's >> (well heat-shrinked) terminals mere millimeters from the inner fender >> sheet >> metal. >> > > Yeah; you *definitely* don't want the input (unprotected side) of the > breaker to be able to touch ground! Is the breaker in a box? Remember that > the shoot fire when they open under short circuit conditions! > > > -- > The storage battery is one of those peculiar things which appeals to > the imagination, and no more perfect thing could be desired by stock > swindlers than that very selfsame thing. Just as soon as a man gets > working on the secondary battery it brings out his latent capacity for > lying. -- Thomas A. Edison > -- > Lee A. Hart, > http://www.sunrise-ev.com/**LeesEVs.htm<http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm> > ______________________________**_________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: > http://www.evdl.org/help/**index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> > http://lists.evdl.org/**listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/* > *group/NEDRA <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130702/2da33e96/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
