It sounds like you do not need a lot of power at 120V since an aux battery charger will typically be in the order of 100 Watt and the other loads are much smaller, so if you get a smallish step-down converter or a so-called auto-transformer from 240 to 120V and attach that to the J1772 input, only now you need at minimum a 3-pole switch to switch over the 240V as well as the 120V wired as one of the hots from the 240V and a re-created "neutral" by properly wiring the 120V output to one hot in the right phase to subtract 120 from 240. By still disconnecting the 120V input completely when selecting 240V, you avoid any possible dangerous output voltage on the 120V male connector if a wiring or input voltage problem occurs on the 240V input.
The 240V to 120V converters are sold cheap in many electronics stores for (intermittent) power levels of 300 or 500W which is probably enough to power your loads continuously. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130 Tel: +1 408 383 7626 Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] on behalf of Zeke Yewdall Sent: Thu 7/11/2013 7:09 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] using dual voltage charger Thats a pain... but given that it only had 3 wires, that's also what I suspected. If this car had a DC-DC, I wouldn't need the separate 12 volt charger. I should look and see if the charger has universal input -- it's an electronic one, so it might.... Z On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 11:38 PM, Mike Scott <[email protected]>wrote: > Zeke; > > J1772 does not have a common wire, just the two hots and ground. If you try > to use the ground for 120V you will trip the GFCI in the EVSE. You will > probably need a 2-1 step down transformer to run your 120V loads. > > I used a universal power supply to run all my interlocks and fans off 12V > when plugged in, so there is no need of 120V. Charging the 12V battery is > the part I have not gotten to yet. I suppose my PSU could trickle it so it > has enough to turn on the DC-DC contactor. > > > On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 7:11 PM, Zeke Yewdall <[email protected]> wrote: > > > I am doing a similar thing to the EV-bug that I'm upgrading -- Elcon > charge > > (1500 watt) so it can run off a heavy gauge extension cord from a regular > > 120vac socket, and the J1772 socket for using the public charging > stations > > in town. I'll have a heavy duty DPDT toggle switch near the two inlets > > that will switch between the two, so either it will send 240vac down to > the > > Elcon, or 120vac down, but not parallel the two inlets (to avoid live > > contacts on the unused inlet while using the other, the 120vac inlet is > > male contacts, so it's a bit less protected than the J1772). The only > > question is exactly how to get 120vac out of the J1772 for the aux > battery > > charger which is 120vac only, and the vent fans for the battery > compartment > > which are 120vac, and the safety relay interlock, which has a 120vac > coil. > > I haven't gotten to that part yet... > > > > Zeke > > > > > > On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 7:43 PM, Mike Nickerson <[email protected] > > >wrote: > > > > > Hi Peter, > > > > > > I have a similar Elcon charger and went through the same questions. > The > > > charger can switch automatically to the voltage on its inputs. It took > > > some > > > wincing the first time I plugged it into 220V, but it did work fine. > The > > > fans are noticeably faster and louder on 220V, since the charger power > > > output is higher. > > > > > > You could make an adapter cord, but I was nervous about having a cord > > that > > > had 220v pins on one end and 110v socket on the other end. In the > wrong > > > hands, this could be used to destroy 110V appliances. Kept out of > those > > > hands, it would work fine, though. > > > > > > I went a slightly different route. I put a connector on the car that > > was a > > > little unusual. I chose a 250V/30A twistlock connector. It was a > > little > > > tricky finding the flanged connector I needed for the car, but I found > it > > > mailorder. I wanted the male pins on the car so the cord would have the > > > female end. The female twistlock was commonly available (Home Depot). > > > > > > I then made two pigtails. One was 110V male to twistlock female. The > > > other > > > was 220V male to twistlock female. I keep the 220V cord at home and > > carry > > > the 110V cord in the car. Some care was required on the 220V cord. The > > > cord > > > on the charger is positive, negative, and ground. Luckily, my outlet > was > > > wired that way also (hot, hot, ground). If your outlet is wired as > split > > > 110V circuits with a neutral, care would be required because the third > > wire > > > to the charger should be ground instead of neutral. The 220V plug and > > > socket > > > are different between hot, hot, neutral and hot, hot, ground. > > > > > > On my installation, I wired the ground on the charger and outlet to > > > chassis > > > ground for safety. > > > > > > The flanged twistlock connector is shown on my evalbum page. > > > www.evalbum.com/2778 > > > > > > The connector in the car is a NEMA L6-30P. I like this because no high > > > voltage is present on any pins, no matter what is plugged in (or not). > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] > On > > > > Behalf Of SLPinfo.org > > > > Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 9:30 AM > > > > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List > > > > Subject: [EVDL] using dual voltage charger > > > > > > > > Hi folks, > > > > > > > > My Quick Charge Select-A-Charge charger is getting old as are my lead > > > acid > > > > batteries in my S-10 http://www.evalbum.com/3739. I've been using > > them > > > > for about 2 years and have about 450 cycles on them. > > > > > > > > For the past several weeds the charger never seems to get up to the > > > target > > > > voltage. The display seems to get stuck at about 55-60% (varies a > > little > > > from > > > > one day to the next) and then it just times out after about 11 hours. > > > > Using my DVM it looks like it's hitting about 135V or so which is > quite > > > low for > > > > my 120V pack. Clearly I'm undercharging my batteries. I sort of > knew > > > this > > > > would happen as I bought the charger used and it's only rated for > > > batteries > > > > up to 150 AH and mine are 170 AH Trojan T-875s. It also only puts > out > > > 10 > > > > amps at 110V so I may have been undercharging since day 1. > > > > > > > > Anyway I ordered and have now received an Elcon 2.5KW HF/PFC charger. > > > > It's supposed to run on both 110V and 220V. I ran it last night on > > 110V > > > and it > > > > seemed to work (though the voltage never seemed to get above 140V on > my > > > > 120V pack - should go to about 165V according to the Trojan algorithm > > > it's > > > set > > > > for). I suspect that the 10 amps it puts out at this voltage just > > isn't > > > strong > > > > enough for these older batteries. So I'm hoping that running it at > 220V > > > (which > > > > should put out about 18A) will do a better job. > > > > > > > > My question is this. The charger comes with what looks like a > standard > > > 110V > > > > male plug for AC input. How do I hook this up to 220V? There is > > nothing > > > > about this in the very minimal manual that came with the charger. > > > > Do I actually need to change the plug on end of the AC cord? Or is > > there > > > > some kind of adapter I can buy so I can use both 110V and 220V as > > > available > > > > (that was why I bought this one). I'd like to be able to use public > > > charging > > > > stations occasion for example. > > > > > > > > - Peter Flipsen Jr > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > > > URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev- > > > > evdl.org/attachments/20130710/60990ce4/attachment.htm> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > > > > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > > > > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > > > > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > > > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > > > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > > > http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130710/561981dc/attachment.htm > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130710/644a3b41/attachment.htm > > > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130711/4d326f41/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
