Hello Roger, 

Use a heavy duty copper battery clamp which has a crimp type barrel. Strip the 
insulation off the 2/0 cable about 1/8 inch longer than the round part of the 
barrel.  Hold the cable in bench vice that has insulated jaws or someone 
holding the cable.  Set the battery clamp in the crimper and push the battery 
clamp onto the cable end until the insulation butts against the battery clamp.  
The extra 1/8 of strip cable will press into the table end of the barrel. 

If the barrel is a single length, crimp about 1/8 of a inch from the wire 
insert in.  If the barrel is a double crimp type, crimp the wire insert in 
first and than crimp the post end second.   If the post end is crimp first, the 
cable could move out which is cause by taper.  

Before I install the other battery clamp on the same link, I slide on heavy 
duty heat shrink that has a sealant in it.  I use one red and one black heat 
shrink.  Next, I coat the battery clamps with a acid proof rubber coating which 
is a red color for the positive and black color for the negative.  Do not coat 
the contact surfaces that touches the battery post. The acid proof rubber 
coating is some of the same stuff that is use to insulated tool handles with. 

After the coating dries, than I install the heat shrink over the barrels.  I 
also install the pretreated red and black battery post anti-corrosion on the 
post under the battery clamps.  Torque the battery clamp bolt to 60 inch 
pounds. If the post has a top stud, I install a stainless steel washer, lock 
washer and nut and torque it to 
60 inch lbs which puts extra internal pressure to the battery clamp.

After driving for the first 5 miles, re-torque the battery clamp again, it is 
normal for it to loss about 5 inch pounds, because the surface contacts melt 
back a little. 

I use this method on my last battery pack, in install on Sept 4, 2009.  They 
now have 3072 cycles on them and only water them every 6 months.  There is no 
corrosion because I use a fiber glass epoxy coated battery box.  When I turn of 
the ignition switch, the batteries are disconnected from the main contactor and 
motor controller and also from the battery charger.  

I found that the PFC battery charger capacitor bank was holding a charge at the 
battery even after the battery charger was off.  When I remove a link from a 
battery, it cause a spark.  Disconnecting the battery from the battery charger 
using a 2-pole DC contactor solve this problem and also reduce the corrosion. 

Roland 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Roger Daisley via EV<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Friday, May 09, 2014 7:11 PM
  Subject: [EVDL] Battery post - Best Practice




  I am going to give the Costco 6v golf cart Batteries a try. I just hauled
  home 18 of them. (56 lbs, ea.)

   

  My previous battery set has the L-foot terminals, while the Costco batteries
  have the post, with 5/16 screw. My controller draws about 550 amps, max.
  (Usually, under one minute duration.)

   

  What would be the best practice to hook up 2/0 cabling, with lug ends?

   

  Roger Daisley

  Pullman, WA

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