Here is an article describing how to make aluminum to copper
connections, and when to use (and when not to use) oxide inhibiting paste:
http://www.stabiloy.com/NR/rdonlyres/AD9F20D3-FA28-4662-A013-A154C569435C/0/AluminumBuildingWireInstallationandTerminations.pdf
The cell manufacturer gives no guidance as to the use of oxide
inhibiting paste, so one must try it both ways. I tried it without
Noalox, and then with Noalox.
I have installed cells without the light sanding and paste, and the
connections were unsatisfactory. They got quite hot. The car performed
poorly and had limited range. The cells would not balance well. I then
performed the "lightly sand and apply Noalox" procedure, and did nothing
else, and all those issues vanished. No additional torque. No added or
removed components. No change whatsoever than to lightly sand and to add
Noalox.
Some time later, a friend had identical issues with his conversion, and
I recommended the same treatment. He performed the "lightly sand and
Noalox" procedure, and it cured his issues in the identical manner as it
had cured mine.
I now routinely use Noalox and I have not had any high resistance
connections.
The Noalox prevents galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals in
the terminal by excluding moisture. Additionally, it has zinc particles
that provide a sacrificial anode, further guarding against corrosion
between the copper, aluminum, and the stainless steel bolt. In theory,
this is what one does to prevent galvanic corrosion. It also appears to
work in practice as well.
I have actually done the experiment, and the results agree with theory.
If anyone else has performed a similar experiment and had contradictory
results, then I would enjoy hearing about it.
Bill D.
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