Hi Ben and All,
Both classicautoair and vintageair make period some even stock A/C units for yours. These are the same car dealers installed on new cars like yours then. Just belt it to the EV motor with the clutch to the brakelight switch though a relay/contactor and a thermostat in traffic you can run it off braking power a lot of the time. Or run it from a DC motor. Or repackage a window AC off an inverter but unlikely to have the room for that. For your inline motor/s the 6.7'' D+D Sep Ex will give you better performance with regen and much better high end power for lower costs. Don't get them together as just costly and a pain to work on. I mounted my double motor set up on 2 3'' alum angles as a motor bed kept them inline and easy to do. Jerry Dycus On Saturday, August 2, 2014 10:06 AM, Ben Goren via EV <[email protected]> wrote: Thanks for the help with that math. I've thought about adding insulation for both thermal efficiency and road noise reduction, and I'll be getting a windshield reflector thingie today. I was at my shade-tree mechanic's yesterday, and he, too, was skeptical of using either electric system for A/C. But...I'm now wondering: are there heat pump systems rather than compressor units that might be more energy efficient? I mean, short of hanging an apartment A/C unit out the window.... Regardless, I think electrically-powered A/C may be lower on the priority list. The original impetus was to use it to cool the batteries...but I'm now leaning towards insulated battery boxes with Peltier coolers. I can probably use the car's steel frame for the hot side heat sink depending on where the boxes get mounted, and a computer CPU heatsink and fan assembly inside the box for circulation. -- and probably use multiple small coolers rather than a single large one. It'd still be nice to keep the vehicle interior below ambient when plugged in, especially this time of year...but that can be a luxury add-on down the road. b& On Aug 1, 2014, at 11:03 PM, Dennis Miles via EV <[email protected]> wrote: > On the other hand a friend in St Petersburg, FL. uses a 7,500 BTU ac in his > S-10 Pickup (About a 400 watt load) and runs it from a 1,000 Watt 110v. > inverter... Your 25000 to 30000 btu/hr are two to two and a half tons (Same > as HP or similar to Kw. ) and that is as much a a small house. I used a > 42,000 btu/hr a-cond to cool a 2,240 sq ft manufactured home in Florida, > and it ran 2/3 s of the time. And now I am using 7,500 btu to cool 900 sq > ft with better insulation... > > Dennis Lee Miles > > (*[email protected] <[email protected]>)* > > * Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.* > > *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)* > > *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are > intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!* > > * You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss > <http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss> * > > > On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 12:22 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV < > [email protected]> wrote: > >> On 1 Aug 2014 at 13:17, Ben Goren via EV wrote: >> >>> it probably also makes sense to get an air conditioner that runs [on] >>> the 12V system so it, too, can run when the car is plugged [in] ... >> >> I'm not so sure. I've read that a typical automotive aircon moves around >> 25000 to 30000 btu/hr. That can take a fair bit of power and energy. >> >> For example, I just found (online) a 24500 btu/hr LG room aircon that uses >> 12.7 amps at 230 volts (2.9kW assuming unity power factor). A comparably >> efficient unit running on 12.7 volts would require 230 amps. That's a >> pretty sizable long-term load for your 12v system. >> >> To look at it another way, you'd need twelve fully charged 90ah lithium >> cells to run that aircon for an hour. Even at 50% duty cycle, you'd still >> need eight 60ah cells. >> >> The energy usage isn't so much of a problem if you're just talking about >> cooling the car while it's parked and charging, though don't forget that >> any >> power the aircon uses isn't available for charging. However, you'd still >> have to have a pretty robust 12v system to power it. >> >> I think you'd be better off with an aircon powered by the main traction >> pack >> voltage. At least the current required would be more manageable. >> >> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA >> EVDL Administrator >> >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not >> reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my >> email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/. >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub >> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org >> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140802/fb6f68fc/attachment.htm> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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