My own pack charger, when plugged into a 110V 15A circuit, 

will chug away, starting at 12-13 Amps and over the course of hours,

mostly be doing some 11 Amps around 130-135V into the pack,

maxing out the circuit pretty effectively. When the pack starts to get

full and the (flooded) batteries go to 2.5V per cell, the current drops to

under 5A which will last another few hours till the charger times out.

The main charging period where the current is around 11A is more than

enough accurate to calmly measure all battery connections for any

excessive voltage drop, it does not make a difference whether the

current is 10 or 11 or 12 Amps. You want to detect a connection that

has way more resistance than the others, so as long as current stays

pretty stable, all you need to do is compare between connections to

see if there are outliers.

 

Hope this clarifies,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com <http://www.proxim.com> 
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info 
<http://www.cvandewater.infom> 
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626

________________________________

From: Michael Ross [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 12:20 PM
To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

 

Is it easy to create exactly 10 amps?  (not rhetorical)

Don't many chargers vary a good bit depending on the load the work into?  

In which case, you need to have a second instrument for the current 
measurement, and it needs to be sufficiently accurate and steady.

 

I measure four wire resistance all the time for temperature measurements using 
platinum RTDs and thermistors.  It is the only way to go for accuracy. 

 

My main point is to know and understand if your instrument is up to the task.

 

On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 2:53 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <[email protected]> 
wrote:

It is not a problem to create a known current in the order of 10 Amps
either by using the existing charger on the vehicle or an external power 
supply. That produces a 1mV drop for a 0.1 Ohms resistance.
Since the measurement does not need to be extremely accurate,
you just want to verify that all connections are in the 0.1 mOhm range
and none are more than double that, you can suffice with pretty simple
instrumentation that allows you to distinguish between 1 and 2 mV, while you 
send that approx 10 Amps through the connection, either by actually charging
or with external means. You just need to take care to always probe on the same 
spot on the battery terminal (preferably as close as possible to the cell 
themselves, so the Alu or copper contact would be good if you can reach it, the 
alu nut around that contact would be the next best thing.
Read up on 4-point resistance measurement (Kelvin sensing) if you are
not familiar with how the sensing points will influence the measurement:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/9.html


Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 <tel:%2B1%20408%20383%207626> 

​SNIP

-- 

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or should I help others gain happiness?  

Dalai Lama 

 

Tell me what it is you plan to do

With your one wild and precious life?

Mary Oliver, "The summer day."

 

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.

Thomas A. Edison 
<http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html> 

 

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Warren Buffet

 

Michael E. Ross

(919) 550-2430 Land

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