Do not have to keep the motor idling. Remember that the accessories are not running continues all the time. Just like your heating and A/C systems are cycle on and off when call for.
I preheat or precool with commercial power by using a transfer switch when park. Most of the time I can drive to my destination without using on board power. My town is about 50 percent up hill driving. There is a limit switch on the accelerator control unit, that turns off the control power to a bank of relays. These relays control the accessories circuits that I choose to come on. Going up hill, the heavy duty accessories are off, and going down hill they come on again. A friend of mine was riding with me, a electrical engineer, and I pointed out the battery ampere indicates 0 amperes, while the invertor/alternator is providing power while the EV is going down hill or rolling to a stop. Save the REGEN a trip to the main battery, by not sending the current to the main battery, but directly to the accessories when needed. Many cases my main battery is not discharge enough to accept the full REGEN power. The motor controller used to be a Cable Form unit, which use a very large resistor for REGEN Braking. THIS WAS NOT GOOD, WHEN TRYING TO BRAKE DOWN A VERY STEEP ICY HILL, WHICH CAUSES THE EV TO GO SIDEWAYS!!! If I am at a long stop, I turn on the idle circuit. If I find that the stop I am coming to is just a stop and go, I will turn on the idle on before I stop, so the motor does not go to 0 rpm, but leaving it at 300 rpm for a Warp 11 motor, This prevents the high start up current of the motor. I gain about 1 amp hour per mile when this is done. A lot of times, I have to stop at a light on a steep up hill road. There are cars right behind me. With a manual transmission, holding the EV with a brake and trying to start up slipping the clutch, the EV will coast back a bit. Sometimes I have to the accelerator harder which causes a big bang in the driveline. Using a very heavy duty modified automatic transmission with a low lock up torque converter, I can hold the position of the EV on the hill and have a very smooth start up. The difference in motor ampere may be 800 motor ampere with the manual to about 100 motor ampere with the automatic. Instead of using 4 ah per mile with the manual, I now using between 2 and 3 ah per mile. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: EVDL Administrator via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 9:42 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:03, Roland via EV wrote: > My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still have it today, uses > LINE voltage to run all the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same > voltage as the main battery ... > My EV control voltage was ran off a Honey Well motor generator that was power > by the main 180 V battery. On dash control high voltage switch allow to turn > on the ignition/start circuits to start the motor generator. I'm confused. First you say your EV control is 180v, then you say you use a 12-16v mechanical DC:DC converter for the controls. (???) Your EV is certainly an unusual one. A motor-generator for DC:DC seems like a less efficient and more expensive solution than a presumably smaller and lighter electronic DC:DC. Maybe that wasn't the case in 1976 though. > I have replace this 12 volt control system with a Delco Inverter > Alternator that is used on ambulances that provides both 12 to 16 V > regulated and at the same time provide 120 volt 60 hz 5kw for my > electric heaters, pumps, and fans. Use a 12 volt deep cycle battery > that have run for about 10 years. Interesting. I wonder if your alternator is smaller and lighter than the 5kW household inverters I've seen. The 2.5kW inverters I own are quite massive enough. Seems to me, the downside of using an alternator would be that you'd have to keep your drive motor "idling" so your accessories would run while the EV is stopped. Mechanical conversion is apt to be less efficient than electronic to begin with, especially in ICE automotive gear, and wasting energy idling the motor would would drop the system efficiency even more. Maybe I'm missing something here. Another consideration for most hobbyists is that they won't have the spare room you have in that massive mid-1970s "Detroit Iron" vehicle. Their smaller vehicles will also weigh less to begin with, so extra weight will have more of an effect for them than it does for you. Going back to the OP, Brusa has always made efficient, beautifully designed gear, though it tends to be complex and expensive. Solectria claimed back in the 1990s that they "co-developed" with Brusa. I don't know whether that makes their DC:DC converters were relatives of your Brusa, but I can tell you that Solectria didn't use a 12v battery with their DC:DC converters - they explicitly advised against adding one - and that they were indeed powered full time. IMO, for most hobbyists, it makes sense to use a small (switched) DC:DC converter with a motorcycle battery to handle peak loads. There isn't much size or weight penalty with that option. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. 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