On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:03, Roland via EV wrote: > My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still have it today, uses > LINE voltage to run all the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same > voltage as the main battery ...
> My EV control voltage was ran off a Honey Well motor generator that was power > by the main 180 V battery. On dash control high voltage switch allow to turn > on the ignition/start circuits to start the motor generator. I'm confused. First you say your EV control is 180v, then you say you use a 12-16v mechanical DC:DC converter for the controls. (???) Your EV is certainly an unusual one. A motor-generator for DC:DC seems like a less efficient and more expensive solution than a presumably smaller and lighter electronic DC:DC. Maybe that wasn't the case in 1976 though. > I have replace this 12 volt control system with a Delco Inverter > Alternator that is used on ambulances that provides both 12 to 16 V > regulated and at the same time provide 120 volt 60 hz 5kw for my > electric heaters, pumps, and fans. Use a 12 volt deep cycle battery > that have run for about 10 years. Interesting. I wonder if your alternator is smaller and lighter than the 5kW household inverters I've seen. The 2.5kW inverters I own are quite massive enough. Seems to me, the downside of using an alternator would be that you'd have to keep your drive motor "idling" so your accessories would run while the EV is stopped. Mechanical conversion is apt to be less efficient than electronic to begin with, especially in ICE automotive gear, and wasting energy idling the motor would would drop the system efficiency even more. Maybe I'm missing something here. Another consideration for most hobbyists is that they won't have the spare room you have in that massive mid-1970s "Detroit Iron" vehicle. Their smaller vehicles will also weigh less to begin with, so extra weight will have more of an effect for them than it does for you. Going back to the OP, Brusa has always made efficient, beautifully designed gear, though it tends to be complex and expensive. Solectria claimed back in the 1990s that they "co-developed" with Brusa. I don't know whether that makes their DC:DC converters were relatives of your Brusa, but I can tell you that Solectria didn't use a 12v battery with their DC:DC converters - they explicitly advised against adding one - and that they were indeed powered full time. IMO, for most hobbyists, it makes sense to use a small (switched) DC:DC converter with a motorcycle battery to handle peak loads. There isn't much size or weight penalty with that option. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
