I have a bt of experience with the 2013 in particular: I bought it soon after its 5 year battery replacement warranty ran out and so its 12V battery was already 5y old. I do not know its history. What we noticed however was that the original software in the 2013 only charged the battery occasionally (I believe it was only once a week) from the traction pack and the weird thing with the Leaf was that when it charged the aux battery, it monitored the current and once the current dropped significantly it would go to "maintaining" level: it would start witht he DC/DC delivering something like 14.2V but as soon as the aux battery current (there is a separate current sensor on the aux battery) would drop to a few Amps, then the voltage of the DC/DC would go to something like 13.2V essentially halting any further charging. The weird result of that behavior is that the *weaker* your aux battery, the *less* it gets charged. I actually used a regulated power supply to occasionally give the 2013 a good full charge but eventually just installed a new battery so the behavior of the 2013 resulted in a better charged battery every drive and charge cycle. Then a year ago the traction battery failed completely and luckily I was still within the California 8 years warranty on drivetrain, so Nissan installed a new pack and apparently also updated the firmware of the computers. I noticed that the blue LED for the 12V charging now comes on every 24h to maintain the aux battery, so apparently Nissan knows of the problem and has updated the firmware to increase the aux battery maintenance. So, possibly all you need to do is to go to Nissan and complain about your aux battery dying and they will update the firmware and you are good. I parked a Leaf more than 2 months and besides going slightly down in traction pack SoC, there was no problem with the aux battery. Hope this helps, Cor.
On Thu, Dec 9, 2021 at 5:16 AM Mark Hanson via EV <[email protected]> wrote: > > Hi folks > After parking the 2013 Leaf in the garage for 3 weeks, it wouldn’t go when I > tried to drive it last night, flashed as error Contact the Dealer with a > bunch of yellow exclamation points. I remembered from the EVDL to check the > 12V battery and it was 9V so I charged it up and then all the worthless error > messages went away and could drive it. It’s been falling out of favor with > my son and wife since we’ve been driving the Tesla Y and Bolt more but > probably need to drive weekly to maintain the 12V battery that seems to be on > a shallow charge at 13.4V from the dc dc converter. Does anyone know what the > ghost name load is and how to eliminate it? Maybe need to keep in a battery > tender float charger when not driving it. I’ll have to check the ma load > tonight after work. I’ll be retiring from GE Renewable Energy at Christmas > so have more time to fool with this stuff > Have a Renewable Energy Christmas > Mark in Roanoke Va > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Address messages to [email protected] > No other addresses in TO and CC fields > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/ > LIST INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org _______________________________________________ Address messages to [email protected] No other addresses in TO and CC fields UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/ LIST INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
