This depends on the Model of course, but on 3/Y you should be able to pull
175a continuously if you shut off most high-current accessories and you
pull from the PCS (DC-DC) output line directly.  You cannot pull ANYTHING
directly from the LV battery, as it will affect the coulomb-counting and
can affect the LV battery lifetime as well as generate alerts that Tesla
will know about, and has used as grounds to void the warranty on the PCS.

The PCS feed terminal is available under the rear-seat lower cushion on the
passenger side.   Note that you cannot leave an inverter with a large
amount of capacitance connected to this 24/7, as when the car attempts to
wake from a deep sleep it can fault when it tries to power this rail up.  A
safe/easy way to handle this is install a large Anderson connector here,
and then only connect the inverter when needed, and preferably with a
precharge.  If you wanted to leave this connected permanently, I would
install a contactor that is powered from an accessory feed, with a
precharge resistor.

If you do this and wish to keep the PCS awake 24/7, simply enable sentry
mode, making sure "disable at home" is not checked.   I think it will keep
the system powered up until about 20% SoC.

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 1:47 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
>
>
> I'd like to know what the Tesla 12V current spec is when attaching an
> inverter to the battery.  What's the E-fuse trip point, actual spec?
>
>
>
> On the internet, just anectotal stuff like this:
>
>
> https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/current-maximum-on-12v-system.31442/
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------
>
>
>
> Chevy Bolt works at 1000W:
>
> I just ran an experiment, hooked a Harbor Fright Centech 2000W cont (really
>
> 1000W) with a 100A CB (WestMarine) in series with the 1 foot #2 cables
> clamped onto the 12V battery.  I turned on the car with it in Park and left
> the keys on the seat.  Initially I tested with a 8.3A parabolic heater for
>
> 30 minutes (drawing about 83-90A).  The 12V battery (Dc DC converter
> output)
> rose to 13.1V, up to 15V after 30 minutes.  Not sure why it *rose* under
> load.  The dash started at 1KW right indicator (load) assume vehicle pumps
> etc - went to 2KW when heater was turned on.  The Klimaire 2020 120VAC 1
> ton
>
> (12000BTU) heat pump drew 6.5A (a bit less than the space heater).  The
> Pioneer (also installed same time) is 6.5A at 120VAC (downstairs unit).
>
>
>
> So - now I can run a minisplit 1 ton heat pump for about 50 hours from a
> 80%
> charged (64KWH) Bolt battery.  I'd like to test on the Tesla-Y but due to
> the picky 12V load monitoring, I'm told this is a no-no.  Strange, you
> would
> think for a pricey car you could direct run a 12V:120V converter off the
> battery/DC-DC converter.  The Leaf works like the Bolt does - but I'm told
> is only rated 90A not 130A like the Bolt.
>
>
>
>
>
> Have a renewable energy day,
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Mark E. Hanson
>
> 184 Vista Lane
>
> Fincastle, VA 24090
>
> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
>
> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
>
> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
>
> UL Certified PV Installer
>
> My RE&EV Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh
>
> REEVA Demo:  <http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0> http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0
>
>
> <
> https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd89
> 75b8d/signature
> <https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd8975b8d/signature>>
> Fincastle Solar Weather Station
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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