Thanks Phil for the informative reply.

 

I guess I don't understand why you can't pull the 175A(max) directly off the 
3/Y easier access 12V battery point like I *can* in the Leaf and Bolt EV?  

 

Isn't the PCS (DC-DC) access point the same (electrically like other EVs) or is 
there a big Schottky isolation diode in between?

 

Since I have a Bolt-EV (simpler option), I'll probably just use it - if I get 
the urge to run my mini-split when the power goes out.  You would think, 
spending $50K+, Tesla would make this simpler.

 

Best Regards,

Mark 

 

From: (-Phil-) 
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 4:58 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.evdl.org>
Cc: markehans...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Inverters on EVs for UPS to power mini splits, 
refrigerators etc, Tesla E-fuse Amps trip point?

 

This depends on the Model of course, but on 3/Y you should be able to pull 175a 
continuously if you shut off most high-current accessories and you pull from 
the PCS (DC-DC) output line directly.  You cannot pull ANYTHING directly from 
the LV battery, as it will affect the coulomb-counting and can affect the LV 
battery lifetime as well as generate alerts that Tesla will know about, and has 
used as grounds to void the warranty on the PCS.

 

The PCS feed terminal is available under the rear-seat lower cushion on the 
passenger side.   Note that you cannot leave an inverter with a large amount of 
capacitance connected to this 24/7, as when the car attempts to wake from a 
deep sleep it can fault when it tries to power this rail up.  A safe/easy way 
to handle this is install a large Anderson connector here, and then only 
connect the inverter when needed, and preferably with a precharge.  If you 
wanted to leave this connected permanently, I would install a contactor that is 
powered from an accessory feed, with a precharge resistor.

 

If you do this and wish to keep the PCS awake 24/7, simply enable sentry mode, 
making sure "disable at home" is not checked.   I think it will keep the system 
powered up until about 20% SoC.

 

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 1:47 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org 
<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> > wrote:

Hi Folks,



I'd like to know what the Tesla 12V current spec is when attaching an
inverter to the battery.  What's the E-fuse trip point, actual spec?



On the internet, just anectotal stuff like this:

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/current-maximum-on-12v-system.31442/


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Chevy Bolt works at 1000W:

I just ran an experiment, hooked a Harbor Fright Centech 2000W cont (really

1000W) with a 100A CB (WestMarine) in series with the 1 foot #2 cables
clamped onto the 12V battery.  I turned on the car with it in Park and left
the keys on the seat.  Initially I tested with a 8.3A parabolic heater for

30 minutes (drawing about 83-90A).  The 12V battery (Dc DC converter output)
rose to 13.1V, up to 15V after 30 minutes.  Not sure why it *rose* under
load.  The dash started at 1KW right indicator (load) assume vehicle pumps
etc - went to 2KW when heater was turned on.  The Klimaire 2020 120VAC 1 ton

(12000BTU) heat pump drew 6.5A (a bit less than the space heater).  The
Pioneer (also installed same time) is 6.5A at 120VAC (downstairs unit).



So - now I can run a minisplit 1 ton heat pump for about 50 hours from a 80%
charged (64KWH) Bolt battery.  I'd like to test on the Tesla-Y but due to
the picky 12V load monitoring, I'm told this is a no-no.  Strange, you would
think for a pricey car you could direct run a 12V:120V converter off the
battery/DC-DC converter.  The Leaf works like the Bolt does - but I'm told
is only rated 90A not 130A like the Bolt.





Have a renewable energy day,



Mark



Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

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