It's commonly available. Sometimes it's labeled as appliance paint. Jan Schmidt wrote:
>John, >What company is selling epoxy paint in a rattle can. I wasnt aware that >could even be done? >Personally, I use Banner red Krylon. It will last a long time, if >something isnt rubbing or scraping on it. >Bill Schmidt 88 red devil kawi > > > >>>>John Whitling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11/06/06 9:53 AM >>> >>>> >>>> >I used Epoxy paint (spray can type) and it has proved to be quite >durable. Far better than any other spray paint types. > >Steve K. Thompson wrote: > > > >>Don't get it powdercoated. When you have to work on the frame again >> >> >(and > > >>you will) the powdercoating is very difficult to remove compared to >>regular paint and hides new cracks a lot better because it's a little >>plastic. You'll work a lot harder getting down to steel and you'll also >>end up thinning the surrounding areas once you want once you get below >>the coating. Unless someone out there knows something about strippers >>that work on powdercoat? >> >>Also check what kind of media they are blasting your frame with. I >>personally do not care for sand/glass as it imbeds itself in the >> >> >surface > > >>and should be cleaned out prior to welding. There are some different >>media out there that do not (walnut, silicon oxide etc). >> >>My 0.02. >> >>Steve >> >> >> >> >> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:f500- >>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Reinhardt >>>Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 2:04 PM >>>To: [email protected] >>>Subject: Re: [F500] Frame Cracks >>> >>>Dave, good advice, as a welder I agree. I would take off all the >>>bodywork and take pictures of everything, every assembly to make sure >>> >>> >>> >>> >>it >> >> >> >> >>>goes back the same way. Find a powder coater in your area that will >>> >>> >>> >>> >>do >> >> >> >> >>>the car when finished, have him sand blast the chassis for you. Put >>> >>> >>> >>> >>the >> >> >> >> >>>sandblasted chassis up on some horses and like Dave said inspect every >>>inch with a good light light and a magnifying glass. Get a blue or >>> >>> >>> >>> >>red >> >> >> >> >>>sharpie and mark every questionable point. Nobody will ever inspect >>> >>> >>> >>> >>your >> >> >> >> >>>car as well as you will. >>> Again as Dave said, gusset every pickup point on the car, ie, the >>>control arm mounting points, rear radius rod and panard points, shock >>>mounting points. >>> You can mig or tig it as long as it's not chrome moly, then it's >>> >>> >>> >>> >>gas or >> >> >> >> >>>tig only. Any good welder should be able to do he job, but either a >>> >>> >>> >>> >>guy >> >> >> >> >>>that does racecar or aircraft repairs wold be the best, sheet metal >>>welders would be next on the list... >>> When you're happy with the welds, send it back to the powder coater >>> >>> >>> >>> >>to >> >> >> >> >>>finish it up.. >>> I'm in the middle of that myself right now, so I know where you're >>> >>> >>> >>> >>at. >> >> >> >> >>>I'm going to Krylon the chassis because I know there'll be changes, >>> >>> >>> >>> >>but >> >> >> >> >>>when I'm happy with it, I'll do the same and have it blasted, inspect >>> >>> >>> >>> >>it, >> >> >> >> >>>then send it back to get powder coated. >>> >>> Good Luck!!!! >>> >>> CR >>> >>> > >[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a >name of jwhit.vcf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of jwhit.vcf] ________________________________ FormulaCar Magazine - A Proud Supporter of Formula 500 The Official Publication of Junior Formula Car Racing Subscribe Today! www.formulacarmag.com or 519-624-2003 _________________________________ _______________________________________________ F500 mailing list - [email protected] To unsubscribe or change options please visit: http://f500.org/mailman/listinfo/f500 *** Please, DO NOT send unsubscribe requests to the mailing list! ***
