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Holly is right, wool doesn't like alkali, however, it's the alkali in 
the soaps that breaks down the grease and mixed with the alkali, 
washes down the drain. With out the alkali, your're not going to get 
the grease out. Too much alkali will cause the fiber to become 
brittle. Also, the amount of time you soak the fleece and how hot 
your water is. We wash most fibers at 140 degrees, wools included. 
The greasier fleeces, merino, etc we do at 160. Mohair has a wax 
secretion on the fiber and sometimes you have to take it to 180. 
However, we find 160 gets most of it.  You shouldn't let any fiber 
sit in the liquor over 30 minutes. The longer it soaks in the liquor 
the more damage can be done to the fiber. A ph of 9 or less is ok for 
washing. The ph is the key. That is what the wool really doesn't 
like. It prefers a more acid ph of around 5 to 6. That's why we use 
vinegar in our dye baths. I've run ph tests on Tide, Wisk, Dawn and 
ERA they are all about 6.5. All, Windfresh from Sam'!
  s, Costco's powdered soap run about 9 in 20 gal. of water. The other 
point made is the quality of your water. If it's hard, lots of 
minerals, you won't get the grease out easily. When we moved from WA 
to MO. The first 3 mos I was going crazy trying to figure why my wool 
wasn't giving up the grease. We insalled a water softner and no more 
problems.

Having a tiny bit of grease residue in the fiber for home processing 
is ok. The speed at which you process the fibers on your drum 
carders, even motorized ones, doesn't come close to the speeds of the 
larger cottage or commercial carding machines. If you don't have the 
grease out and recondition the fibers so they are dampish, not wet, 
you're going to get breakage, because the fibers won't slide by each 
other during the processing on the drums. This creates neps, noils, 
and breakage of fiber. We check washed fibers very carefully in the 
mill and re-wash 95% of them because of grease residue.


Gail White
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