Thanks for the help on splicers. All very useful! I actually think I have the
Kodak press tape splicer somewhere. After googling it I remember getting one in
with a box of super 8 stuff ages ago. I'll have to go and have a look for it.
What kind of tape does it use?
How can you tell the difference visually between the one/two sided Catozzo
splicers? Is one recommended over the other or are they pretty much identical
aside from the little bit of extra tape you can cut off/fold over on the
Todd, I might be interested in the splicer although you'll have to give me a
price because I'm really not versed in 16mm equipment.
> From: hell...@agit-prop.com
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 20:22:08 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Frameworks] 16mm Splicer
> The blades and punches can be sharpened, and they mostly likely will
> need it if you buy a used splicer. Disassemble it and take the blades
> and punches to a place that sharpens saws and industrial cutters. But
> explain to them what and how it cuts. The punches need to be ground
> from the inside of the little V to maintain the outer profile. The
> blades should be ground from the outside, with minimal bevel on the
> inside faces.
> Clean the rest with acetone to remove the tape gunk.
> The actual film plate in the base of the splicer is the other half of
> the cutting surface, but it wears less than the blades and punches if
> everything is properly aligned. If the edges of the plate and/or the
> perf holes are excessively worn, you'll never get a clean splice.
> The blades are spring steel, slightly curved to align with pressure to
> the base plate. Dullness is more of an issue there than alignment. As
> the baseplate wears to less than 16mm, the blades just take a wee bit
> of film off with the tape. If the perf holes in the plate are
> oversized, you can't make the punches bigger. Just pick the hanging
> chads off with tweezers.
> I have one of the double sided 16mm splicers I will probably never
> use... If anyone needs it, make me an interesting offer.
> Todd Eacrett
> Victoria, BC, Canada
> On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 19:31:40 -0400, David Tetzlaff <djte...@gmail.com> wrote:
> There are actually different kinds of guillotine (Catozzo-type)
> splicers, one designed mainly for making workprint splices (one sided),
> and another designed for making projector splices (two-sided): though
> you can use either for the other with reduced convenience. The
> two-sided model cuts the tape with a flap to the bottom that you just
> fold over to cover the other side. To make a one-side splice with it,
> you have to trim off the flap. To make a two-sided splice with the
> one-side splicer, you have to turn the film over and around and repeeat
> the process on the other side -- it was easier with double perf, but
> hah, those were the days.
> > The problems with guillotine splicers: • the blades that cut across
> > the width of the splicing tape get dull and misaligned, but it's
> > pretty easy to do it manually with an xacto knife
> > • the punches that put sprocket holes in the tape often leave
> > little pieces hanging, and they're a pain in the butt to trim
> > The problem with Rivas splicers:
> > • You have to be deft enough to get the holes in the tape lined up
> > with sprocket holes, and the tape and film edges straight. Almost all
> > the Rivas splices I've seen in rental prints are crooked.
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