Hi, Thanks for the help on splicers. All very useful! I actually think I have the Kodak press tape splicer somewhere. After googling it I remember getting one in with a box of super 8 stuff ages ago. I'll have to go and have a look for it. What kind of tape does it use? How can you tell the difference visually between the one/two sided Catozzo splicers? Is one recommended over the other or are they pretty much identical aside from the little bit of extra tape you can cut off/fold over on the double. Todd, I might be interested in the splicer although you'll have to give me a price because I'm really not versed in 16mm equipment. BestKevin
> From: hell...@agit-prop.com > To: frameworks@jonasmekasfilms.com > Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 20:22:08 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Frameworks] 16mm Splicer > > > > The blades and punches can be sharpened, and they mostly likely will > need it if you buy a used splicer. Disassemble it and take the blades > and punches to a place that sharpens saws and industrial cutters. But > explain to them what and how it cuts. The punches need to be ground > from the inside of the little V to maintain the outer profile. The > blades should be ground from the outside, with minimal bevel on the > inside faces. > > Clean the rest with acetone to remove the tape gunk. > > The actual film plate in the base of the splicer is the other half of > the cutting surface, but it wears less than the blades and punches if > everything is properly aligned. If the edges of the plate and/or the > perf holes are excessively worn, you'll never get a clean splice. > > The blades are spring steel, slightly curved to align with pressure to > the base plate. Dullness is more of an issue there than alignment. As > the baseplate wears to less than 16mm, the blades just take a wee bit > of film off with the tape. If the perf holes in the plate are > oversized, you can't make the punches bigger. Just pick the hanging > chads off with tweezers. > > I have one of the double sided 16mm splicers I will probably never > use... If anyone needs it, make me an interesting offer. > > Cheers, > > Todd Eacrett > Victoria, BC, Canada > > On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 19:31:40 -0400, David Tetzlaff <djte...@gmail.com> wrote: > There are actually different kinds of guillotine (Catozzo-type) > splicers, one designed mainly for making workprint splices (one sided), > and another designed for making projector splices (two-sided): though > you can use either for the other with reduced convenience. The > two-sided model cuts the tape with a flap to the bottom that you just > fold over to cover the other side. To make a one-side splice with it, > you have to trim off the flap. To make a two-sided splice with the > one-side splicer, you have to turn the film over and around and repeeat > the process on the other side -- it was easier with double perf, but > hah, those were the days. > > > > The problems with guillotine splicers: • the blades that cut across > > the width of the splicing tape get dull and misaligned, but it's > > pretty easy to do it manually with an xacto knife > > • the punches that put sprocket holes in the tape often leave > > little pieces hanging, and they're a pain in the butt to trim > > > > The problem with Rivas splicers: > > • You have to be deft enough to get the holes in the tape lined up > > with sprocket holes, and the tape and film edges straight. Almost all > > the Rivas splices I've seen in rental prints are crooked. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > FrameWorks mailing list > > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
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