Excellent advice from Scott. The heat is just a drying time aid. Less expensive 
glue splicers don’t have heaters. Glue splicing is all about scraping 
technique, good cement, and technique in applying the cement properly. It takes 
some practice to do it right, so newbies should experiment on outs/trims/slug 
before cutting precious footage.

But… I’m not sure glue splicing is what you’d want for digitizing from 
negative. Historically, glue splices have been used for preparing A/B rolls so 
the lab can create prints with invisible edit points. Thus, the splices all 
involve a scraped lap of the negative being glued to a full from of black. If 
you glue splice an ‘A’ roll, the splices will be quite visible. If you’re going 
to digitize camera original, it makes no sense to create your edits in the film 
stock. I would think you’d want to cut the sections you want to digitize 
several frames long on each end, and tape splice them together. The tape 
splices would show in the digitized footage, of course, but then you just edit 
them out to the proper in/out points in an NLE.

You could do the same with glue splices, of course, but the only reason I can 
think of to do that is if they’d run through the gate of the scanner more 
reliably. AFAIK, the flatness of a properly aligned tape splice would be better 
than the bump of the lap in the glue splice, but I could be wrong on that.

Anybody have more knowledge on this?

Scott Dorsey wrote:
> It won't get very hot, it only gets slightly warm.  And you can make a 
> perfectly good splice with it even if it's not warm, it just takes a lot
> longer to set.

FrameWorks mailing list

Reply via email to