The  dying art and craft of cement splicing certainly is dying. I believe
there are only a few of us who know how to operate a cement splicer.

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 11:30 AM, Caryn Cline <carynycl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you Scott, George and Dave for your helpful suggestions.  It turns
> out that I can submit my negatives tape-spliced.  I will order some fresh
> cement, too and practice my hot-splicing technique.
>
> Thank you, Frameworks.  I'd be adrift without you.
>
> CC
> Caryn Cline
> Experimental Filmmaker & Teacher
> vimeo.com/carynyc
>
>
> film still from "Hand-made" (2016)
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 9, 2016 at 3:18 PM, Dave Tetzlaff <djte...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Excellent advice from Scott. The heat is just a drying time aid. Less
>> expensive glue splicers don’t have heaters. Glue splicing is all about
>> scraping technique, good cement, and technique in applying the cement
>> properly. It takes some practice to do it right, so newbies should
>> experiment on outs/trims/slug before cutting precious footage.
>>
>> But… I’m not sure glue splicing is what you’d want for digitizing from
>> negative. Historically, glue splices have been used for preparing A/B rolls
>> so the lab can create prints with invisible edit points. Thus, the splices
>> all involve a scraped lap of the negative being glued to a full from of
>> black. If you glue splice an ‘A’ roll, the splices will be quite visible.
>> If you’re going to digitize camera original, it makes no sense to create
>> your edits in the film stock. I would think you’d want to cut the sections
>> you want to digitize several frames long on each end, and tape splice them
>> together. The tape splices would show in the digitized footage, of course,
>> but then you just edit them out to the proper in/out points in an NLE.
>>
>> You could do the same with glue splices, of course, but the only reason I
>> can think of to do that is if they’d run through the gate of the scanner
>> more reliably. AFAIK, the flatness of a properly aligned tape splice would
>> be better than the bump of the lap in the glue splice, but I could be wrong
>> on that.
>>
>> Anybody have more knowledge on this?
>>
>>
>> Scott Dorsey wrote:
>> > It won't get very hot, it only gets slightly warm.  And you can make a
>> perfectly good splice with it even if it's not warm, it just takes a lot
>> > longer to set.
>>
>>
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