It came from someone on the h-costume boards. I will see if I still have the reference.
I don't know what a short sleeved kirtle looks like.
I have the Margo Anderson patterns, the Arnold books and ordered one by Jean M(? I can't remember the last name right now) It's about costuming. The site where I have seen the pictures of the layers used for this portrait is "Ninya Mikhaila" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com
Her website has 2 versions of a gown from the portrait. One shows the layers and the other shows how she did the front opening. She also wrote to me when I asked questions. She has been very helpful and easily available when I needed her advice. ----- Original Message ----- From: "otsisto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


Please note that silk is a warm fabric. I believe that if you line your
garment with silk you may be insulating it. If your area is prone to heat
then you may not wish to line in silk. Nor would you wish to have silk next
to the body in heat as it tend to cling to the body from the sweat it
produces.
I do not think that corsets were used in England at this time but I am not
100% sure.
If there was a corset, it would have been made of linen or linen and wool.
but I think the support is mainly from the kirtle.
For gowns where you can not see a chemise, it has been surmised that the
person is wearing a smock which is like a slip that is not gathered at the
neck but is cut to be just under the kirtle and dress neckline.
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
go to "Under Pinnings" pattern, click on it.
Go to "Two styles of smock, w/partlet" click.
It is the first smock that I am talking about but not tapered in the sleeves
so that you can gather them into a cuff.
I believe that this may be a possibility with this dress from indication of
the shift/chemise cuff gathering. The gathering is not extensive but
indicative of a straight sleeve lightly gathered.
As far as I know the kirtle from this period does not have short sleeves but this doesn't mean there wasn't some with short sleeves. Does your source for short sleeve kirtles state where one can find the it? I would be interested.
Hope all this makes sense.
De
Recovering from bronchitis so brain not quite pass first gear.


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