I spent a space of time this AM trying again to grapple with the problem...with QEWU and Hunnisette open before me...and the doll/maninqin with the garment pieces . I understand what you suggest about the idea of an open sleeveless robe. This was my first idea. After reading Hunnisette and her design for the film with Glenda Jackson, I see that her design was compromised by reason of budget.And that she holds the interpretation of the "red" to be an additional skirt incorperating the gold tissue as is described by Arnold in QEWU. Very confusing!
Kathleen, That's sad to see what is supposed to be an outrageously cool dress cut back for budget reasons. Second skirt *that* far back on the body? In one of the few pictures with multiple views, Bal at the court of Henri III, 1581, you can see that there are only single layered skirts. Yeah, yeah, different country, I'm off by a few years, yadda, yadda... but the Ditchley is allegorical. And in allegory anythng is fair game. Sure lots of other ladies had openings in the skirt front, but they arent wearing them *that* far open in the portraits. It seems almost lewd to do so. (Oh dear, the closet Victorian has gotten out!) It's an interesting possibility, and an excellent excuse for a more elaborate or even scenic forepart. I'll be on the lookout for something that indicates a wider gap, but for now, all the really wide foreparts seem to be wide because they were added onto in later periods (e.g. the 18th c) and reused. For the shape of the hanging sleeve, have you looked at some of the transparent, probably gauze, sleeves. I find it easier to see the cut since you can see the back edge & gathers thru the front of the sleeve. There's a c1600 unknown lady hanging at the NY Met. "Portrait of a noblewoman" is the unhelpful title. Her sleeve is very ruffled. These hanging sleeves extend pass the lower edge of the 3/4 portrait. There's another Unknown Lady by an unknown artist, c.1603, at Cowdray Park. I think JArnold shows here in QEWU (I dont have it handy) and it's in "The Embroiderer's Art". She's got pyramids or obelisks embroidered on the border of her skirt. Her gauze or lace sleeves hang to the floor. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
