The earliest partlet I can think of is Brugundian, "Portrait of a Lady" by Rogier Van Der Wyeden's workshop: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=ng1433 It's not worn on top of the dress, and its probably not as structured a partlet as you were thinking... there's not really a collar.
For Italy try 1485, "Portrait of a Young Woman" by Domenico Ghirlandaio: http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html which I think is the clearest picture of an early Florentine coverciere (which gets translated as partlet) worn on the outside of the dress, although it's not the earliest portrait. There are a lot of other Italian pictures to choose from at: http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html Again, no collars associated with these partlets yet. For Spain, if you have a copy of _Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson that would be my first go-to source. In Germany you get gollers with collars fairly early, but I don't know if you'd count those as partlets... they're as much mini-capelets as partlets. Here's an example: http://www.museothyssen.org/thyssen/coleccion/ficha925.htm? You might scroll though the pictures on http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/ to get an overview. Unfortunately the links to the earlier versions of gollers don't seem to be working. BTW, a lovely image of a German partlet worn outside of the dress is http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_image.aspx?image=ps278657.jpg&retpage=21768 but it's _long_ after your time frame of interest (1547) Hope this helps! -sunny NOTICE TO RECIPIENT: If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, you are prohibited from sharing, copying, or otherwise using or disclosing its contents. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by reply e-mail and permanently delete this e-mail and any attachments without reading, forwarding or saving them. Thank you. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
