Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on
using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is
that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to,
since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector
and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.
Where can the gridded pattern pattern be found? I do believe I've seen
the gridded quilters interfacing at the craft store and will give them
a call today to see if they carry any. I once scaled up a pattern for a
skirt from Jane Arnold's book and it went amazingly well, size
adjustments weren't even necessary in the end. What made it easier was
the fact that her patterns are laid out over the 1/4 grids, whereas the
pattern parts in the Frances Grimble books are just on plain paper. I
guess it's time to tear the house apart to find my olf writing tablet
that has the 1/4 graph paper on the back so I can trace them first onto
there, and maybe use tissue paper to redraw them over my 1" grid
quilting board?
I'll see how far I get first just trying to get workable patterns from
the book before I continue worrying about how to piece the dress
together. The one thing I am curious about is using the tapes on the
skirt without boning as described in the original instructions for how
the dress is made. What were they for, are they meant to be moveable
like the pleating tape they sell for window shades that has little
rings where cord is run through to open and close, but in this case so
one can adjust the skirt freely and as desired?
I've studied period pieces, bustle styles but only have one early
original in my collection do far to study from in terms of construction
inside and out, but it was a very basic piece that I think was remade
from a hoop skirt, so it lacks all the pleats and folds of the
elaborate later styles, just cartridge pleating along the back
waistband. Unless there was an overskirt that was lost.
Thanks again and talk soon.
-Justine.
-Justine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kim Baird <[email protected]>
To: 'Historical Costume' <[email protected]>
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:42 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Justine--
To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed
with a
grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a
blue
grid.
You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if
that is
not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch
must
equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the
pattern pieces would give a bust of 4 inches, you have to enlarge at
least
10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is
2.5
inches.
It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one
and the
large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across
the
top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two.
All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to
adjust a pattern you already have.
For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the
back.
You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the
center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel
on
each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the
back at
the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the
opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest.
If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin,
folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an
overskirt
from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you
need
to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a
closure that is invisible.
A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of
twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL
rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing.
Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and
simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape
the
bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs.
Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic
boning--I
had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere.
The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy
something
authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian.
Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without
illustrations!
Kim
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On
Behalf Of [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!
Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern
enlarging
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle
dress, or
make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new
acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing
this,
as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to
facing the dred task of "grading" that it never came into fruition. I
would
try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period
patterns,
but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so
much
for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns).
The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know
quite
often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented
in
the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use
of
skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!
Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest,
or
least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and
I'm
ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??
These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any
guidance
would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns
that
I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me
the
right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so
daunting having never done it before.
Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all
others
for your patience:)
Regards,
Justine.
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