I am sticking my nose in here. I spent 25 years as a patternmaker/designer
in NYC. 

Both Gerber and Lectra have computer grading programs. The software and
hardware are HUGELY expensive. My suggestion is to contact either of these
companies to see if there is someone in your area (or ever outside the area)
for names of companies who do grading and marking. It may be pricey at
first, but once you have the patterns you can make oak tag copies and use
them forever.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 4:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grading patterns

I need to be able to grade a pattern up and down in size from a 0 up  
to probably a 20 something.  I don't want to have to repattern a  
garment for each size.

?

Sylvia Rognstad
Costume/clothing design & construction
Alterations & home dec
http://www.ezzyworld.com




On Jan 29, 2010, at 1:46 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 12:13 PM 1/29/2010, you wrote:
>> Sylvia, I think your question entirely appropriate for this list.  
>> I have a  whole archive of historic patterns that I'd like to  
>> grade (none of  them is even close to my own size!), but have  
>> never attempted. If you  hear of a grader/service, I might be  
>> interested, too. Many thanks for posting!
>>     == Marjorie Wilser =:
>>  On Jan 29, 2010, at 9:31 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: > > I know  
>> this question isn't related specifically to historic  > costuming,  
>> but I think some of you have made businesses from your  > passion  
>> for such and may have needed to grade their patterns up and  >  
>> down for sale.   In the past, I have done my own grading, but  
>> I've  > never really learned totally how to do it and I have some  
>> ideas for  > new designs that, if they sell, I may need to size  
>> them up or down  > and these may be too complex for me to try on  
>> my own.  Does anyone  > know of any professional graders?  I live  
>> in Colorado, but I imagine  > I could ship my patterns out of  
>> state if I can't find someone here. > >
>>  Sylvia Rognstad
>
> When I first made a dress for Dickens Faire and Sutter's Fort about  
> 30 years ago (!), there were no commercial patterns anywhere near  
> my size or shape.  Given that I am very short-waisted, I found it  
> easier to start from my own fitted sloper and then make changes to  
> give the cut of the dress I wanted.  For example, a standard sloper  
> has a side-bust dart; in the 19th century dresses the bust darts  
> are from the waist; so I changed the bust darts to match my desired  
> look.  You might find this easier than grading a historical  
> pattern, I certainly did.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joa...@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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