Here's what I've done for historical theater purposes, rather than strict use of historical methods. In Danse Libre performances the last thing I wanted to worry about is costume bits falling off while I was on stage. I chose to do up the lining with sturdy closures, then close the outside fashion layer with something nearly invisible like hooks & eyes or covered snaps. This means that the bodice had to be bag lined all around except for CB (usually) closure area. Turn edges of the closure area leaving the outer layer(s) separate from the inside. Apply suitable closure methods to the separate layers.. The lining was closed usually with laces, but for a quick theatrical costume change (7 mins from Victorian into Ragtime), I've installed a zipper. On another, I made a fake closure in the back (a typical Victorian arrangement for a ballgown bodice) and placed the true closure on the CF under some trim. I realize, Kimiko, that you primarily do Tudor, and stay in your things for long periods so my theatrical suggestions are less useful. However, the multiple closures idea shows up in the 16th c with hooks, laces (points) used simultaneously. Finally, you (or your client) may also have over-tightened the stays so that the body fails to fill out the garment as it was designed. Best regards, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 10:07 PM, Kimiko Small <sstormwa...@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi all, > > This is more of a how-to do sewing technique question, but it does apply to > historical clothing. > > I made up a new silk damask early 16th c. gown, which came out wonderfully for > the most part, except for one major problem. The gown was closed down the > center > front with hooks & bars, as it was the only way I could think of to close the > center front, doing an overlap. I don't use hooks & bars, or eyes, very often > for a stressed situation. I usually lace closures shut. Usually I use hooks & > bars or threadbars on small cuffs or to close a skirt closed where it doesn't > show, and/or the item isn't under stress. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
