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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 08:31:35 -0700
From: Cin <[email protected]>
To: Historical Costume <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hooks & bars problem
Message-ID:
        <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Here's what I've done for historical theater purposes, rather than
strict use of historical methods.  In Danse Libre performances the
last thing I wanted to worry about is costume bits falling off while I
was on stage.  I chose to do up the lining with sturdy closures, then
close the outside fashion layer with something nearly invisible like
hooks & eyes or covered snaps.
This means that the bodice had to be bag lined all around except for
CB (usually) closure area.  Turn edges of the closure area leaving the
outer layer(s) separate from the inside. Apply suitable closure
methods to the separate layers..
The lining was closed usually with laces, but for a quick theatrical
costume change (7 mins from Victorian into Ragtime), I've installed a
zipper.  On another, I made a fake closure in the back (a typical
Victorian arrangement for a ballgown bodice) and placed the true
closure on the CF under some trim.
I realize, Kimiko, that you primarily do Tudor, and stay in your
things for long periods so my theatrical suggestions are less useful.
However, the multiple closures idea shows up in the 16th c with hooks,
laces (points) used simultaneously.
Finally, you (or your client) may also have over-tightened the stays
so that the body fails to fill out the garment as it was designed.
Best regards,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[email protected]

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A similar solution, but one that might fit more in the early 16th century
might be have a set of lacing rings set say a half inch back from the
openings, and then pin the overlap down. 

Claire

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