Ann, In terms of "reinventing the wheel," I almost have to because
am aiming to commercially sell either the end result or the pattern, or both.
herefore I couldn't use a current working pattern because of copyright issues.
Sorry you seem to have misunderstood what I said. I'm urging you to go to
original sources and NOT even LOOK at modern re-created patterns, for that very
reason. You definitely do not want there to be any question of copyright
infringement. And of course even the best patterns are interpretations or
adaptations, and you certainly want to do your own thing, not someone else's.
That being said, I'm not sure who your market for this pattern will be. You
don't seem to be aiming at specific reenacting time periods, and you don't want
Goth. I'm not convinced there are droves of women who want to put themselves
back into restrictive foundation garments, especially ones they have to make.
(Yes, I know about Spanx and all, but I can't stand them, either, and they at
least have the advantage of the comfort provided by the stretch of spandex.)
I also know that Saundra Altman, of Past Patterns, spent a long period of time
perfecting her early 19th century corset pattern. She held a series of
workshops where women worked with her draft patterns and worked out the bugs
that way.
That is to say, you are going to have to be sure your pattern works with a
variety of real seamstresses and on a variety of real bodies, and that is quite
a process.
Good luck!
Ann Wass
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
To: Historical Costume <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 8:02 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
My understanding so far is that the spoon busk was towards the latter half or
ven latter third of the 19th century. I am currently at work and have limited
ccess to look it up but I might be completely wrong. "to assume is o make an
ss between U and ME."
No carol, there is no "average" woman - perhaps I used the wrong terms. I was
hink more along the lines of encompassing more than one specific decade in
erms of style, that can fit a modern woman's proportions (which are different
rom back then.)
personally, I wish to avoid Goth styles. I'm not dismayed at Steampunk but
would
ather that style able to use my pattern instead of designing it specifically
or them.
Kathleen and Ann, In terms of "reinventing the wheel," I almost have to because
am aiming to commercially sell either the end result or the pattern, or both.
herefore I couldn't use a current working pattern because of copyright issues.
'm also looking at it more of going back to the original sources and basing it
ff that even if it closely resembles current working patterns. But I need some
elp in finding those primary sources.
Lisa, I greatly appreciate your opinion of using gores to improve fit!
Michael Deibert
AS AAS LLS
ent from my iPhone
On Mar 24, 2011, at 7:42, Carol Kocian <[email protected]> wrote:
>
19th century = 1800s, 1801 to 1900. The spoon busk was used in the 19th
entury. The gores in the soft corset are used in 1820, which sounds like
early" for the time span you are looking at.
Early and late Victorian are different shapes. I don't know that there is an
verage customer!
There are, however, may women who wear corsets for steampunk (not as strict
or accuracy) and goth fashion (also no need for historic accuracy). Maybe you
re aiming for that market? But once you are talking about reenactors, I
onsider them to be more interested in accuracy and the look of the dress worn
ver the corset, so "generic" will only go so far.
You might also want to look at longline bras and other such modern lingerie.
here have been garments, both mainstream and special-occasion, that have bra
ups built in.
-Carol
On Mar 24, 2011, at 11:26 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> Which century are you researching?? I think you can perhaps start?with
ikipedia if you don't have Waugh, yet. The spoon busk was quite before the 19th
. so it wouldn't be considered for the Victorian period anyway.? If you mean to
e historical, I think the "wheel" has already been invented for the common man
woman).
> Kathleen, who has been there already
> .
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> Sent 3/24/2011 7:10:43 AM
> To: "Historical Costume" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questionsFirst, that book
s one of the top ones on my wish list! Perhaps I can scavenge the money for it
ow that I've a specific reason!
> While I'm aiming for Victorian, the style and shape will be geared more
owards the "average customer" who really wouldn't care if it was early or late
ictorian. It's the hourglass shape, cinching in the waist, while providing
upport and lift and perhaps some cleavage (which would rarely been shown or
esired to my knowledge in the days the style would be worn!)
> But even though I'm aiming for a general "dumb" wearer, I want to have the
istorical aspect influencing the corset. I hope I'm not contradicting myself!
are I say that my vision is a corset that, with the use of different sized
ores, be sewn to fit a wide range of sizes and be historical accurate enough
or re-enactors to wear, but suitable for any woman to wear in place of a bra?
oes that help any?
> I do know that I plan on using a straight busk not a spoon, so if my memory
erves right, that puts me in the earlier eras... But you mentioned that gores
idn't fully show up till the later eras... Is it possible to breed the two
ogether and still work? Thus the research!
> Michael Deibert
> OAS AAS LLS
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 24, 2011, at 6:45, Carol Kocian <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hi Michael,
>>
>> What era are you aiming for? Victoria was around for a long time and the
ideal" shape changed through those decades. Gores first show up in the softer
orsets of the early 19thC. Having the right shape of the corset makes a
ifference in the finished look of the outfit.
>>
>> My favorite book to start is Corsets & Crinolines by Norah Waugh. The
attern drafts are taken from extant corsets, and it's easy to see how the
onstruction and shapes of the pieces affect the resulting shape of the body.
>>
>> -Carol
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 5:15 AM, Michael Deibert wrote:
>>
>>> Good morning everyone!
>>>
>>> I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start on here
>>> where many of you already have research. While I know a lot regarding
>>> corsets, I have two main focuses.
>>>
>>> The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a corset
>>> pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset patterns to
>>> base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am specifically
>>> hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust gores.
>>>> From the many companies out there currently selling commercial pattersn,
>>> there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at trying to
>>> simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe that there
>>> might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of you
ave
>>> or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that direction!
>>> (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, rather
>>> than just copy and paste.)
>>>
>>> Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the
>>> Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many
>>> of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a
eason
>>> for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores?
>>> Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is
>>> also a huge plus!
>>>
>>> Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my final
>>> pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance!
>>>
>>> Michael Deibert
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> [email protected]
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
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