@Phil Dirt et al, I appreciate your concern and tips. Bungees were only to make it home at 10pm at night at 35mph for 1/2 an hour by myself. I will not be driving up to BM that way. What I was thinking of doing was taking the 16 x 20 ft tarp with grommets that I purchased, wrapping the stack of panels in that, then tying that to my roof rack with one of the 100' ropes that I purchased. Then setting our tandem bike down on top of that, with some kind of layer of protection in between the tarp-wrapped panels and the tandem, and also tying the tandem down. Worst case scenario I'll go to my local REI as it's too late to order anything at this point from NRS.com, which is entirely my fault of course. Good to know though that they can be used as part of the tie-down system. I'll google trucker's hitch. I'll look for those corner protectors at my local lumber yard too.
I've never done construction-type work before (regretfully), so I've never "beveled" anything either. I do have a skilsaw. Does setting it at 30º automatically take care beveling the edges? It seems you would have to alternate the angles, or at least the sides of the panels that you cut your panel on, so as to have one beveled edge wedge tightly and properly against another, like 2 cheese wedges facing each other but then being slid into place tightly, "right cheek to right cheek" so as to have them fit closely and snugly (forgive the kindergarten visual, just don't know of any other way at the moment to explain how to cut and wedge the beveled edges together). Or am I overthinking this, and simply cut the inside side of the panel edges at 30º, and they'll all fit together nicely? "gussets out of scrap valley flashing" ? I'll google gussets. What is scrap valley flashing? It also sounds like you're using actual hardware to make some kind of metal latch mechanism to close your door. I haven't seen any mention of this in any of the H13 instruction sheets I've found online, but of course it makes sense. I'll look for pics of this on other yurt designs to get an idea of what to do. I was just thinking of using tape to connect the door to the yurt like a catflap, but have it swing inwards so that the wind won't rip it off. Sound crazy or could this work as a door hinge? Gratefully, -Alejandro On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 5:30 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: > Please! Do not use bungee cord to tie down your panels for transport! > That's not what it's made for, and not surprisingly, not what it's > good for. Bungee cord tie downs will put you at high risk of having > your panels take off and self-destruct along the highway, and maybe > cause an accident in the traffic behind you. I use 1" cam straps > available from NRS.com. Less well designed straps can be found at REI. > They have a load strength of about 1600 lbs, can be adjusted easily, > and can be used as part of your tie down system once the yurt has been > assembled. Most hardware and auto supply stores have ratcheting tie > down straps, which can be used as well for securing your load and tie > down in camp. Or just use the rope you're bringing to make a halo or > guy lines and learn how to tie a trucker's hitch. (Google it) To > protect the edges of your load you can get 90º angled corner > protectors made out of heavy cardboard at any lumber yard. They throw > away hundreds of them, so it's not difficult to get them to provide > you with an ample supply. Barring that, you can make your own from > scrap sheet metal flashing. > > I think sheet rock with liquid nails is unnecessary and way too much > weight to add to your load. Your hexayurt is designed to transfer the > weight of the roof (static and dynamic) down from the roof and through > the walls to the ground. Don't get lazy and build it with straight > cuts and tape. The beveled edges are extremely important for the > weight distribution and overall stability of the structure. You don't > need an extra long straight edge to mark your cuts. I just used a > carpenter's chalk line. Measure the end points, stretch the line (you > can use a screw or nail to anchor the end if working alone), snap, and > you have your cut line. And cutting with a box cutter is way too > inefficient and hard work, especially when cutting your bebels. I used > a Skilsaw (with dust mask) and laid the panels out on 8' 2x4s on my > deck. The section cuts go quickly. Then mark your cut line on the > inside of the panels 3/4" from the edge, set the blade angle to 30º > and let the saw do the work. I worked outside because this cutting > produces a lot of dust. > > The dust must be removed for any tape to stick. I used a leaf blower > for the loose dust, then paint thinner on a rag to wipe down the fine > dust off the panels. I just used regular duct tape or Gorilla tape on > the edges. Even 3" tape is difficult to span the beveled edges, so I > just laid down a strip on one side then repeated with a strip on the > other. > > The aluminum tape is just to prevent the expensive 6" bi-di structural > tape from fire wherever you use it to tape on the inside seams. The > roll I got is a pain in the butt to use because it has a paper backing > that must be removed as the tape is applied. Wherever possible I made > my structural tape seams on the outside of the HY so I wouldn't have > to mess with the foil tape. > > I won't be using the bi-di tape to create tape anchors either. I made > gussets out of scrap valley flashing to distribute the pressure of my > tie downs. May add more flashing where the roof line meets the wall. > Will also use scrap flashing on the door to reinforce the hinge and > latch areas. Plan to use 2" toggle bolts with fender washers to > sandwich the wall between the sheet metal at the hinge and latch > stress points. > > If you're building a stretch hexayurt you will have four 2'x4' > triangles as scrap. These I have taped together to create two shelves > to hold my small items inside the yurt. > > Bill > > > > On Aug 23, 10:12 am, Alejandro Moreno <[email protected]> wrote: > > Yes, I found a burner on Treasure Island who bought tape but didn't build > a > > yurt. I'm in Marin so we'll connect hopefully today. Went and bought > just > > about everything aside from the bidi fil tape for the H13 last night at > Home > > Despot in San Rafael, I got 13 of their last 14 polyiso panels ($18 each, > > ouch), all they have left there are the polystyrene and some of that > bendy > > pink and blue stuff, at least as of last night. Hopefully they'll have > more > > than that at your locale. > > Thanks Ian! > > > > (I'll share my buying experience, loading strategy to get home from Home > > Despot, and costs below for those of you who care to read on)... > > > > Even though I got lucky and found an employee there who used to be a > > contractor (with real working knowledge and knew where everything was), > it > > still took me over 2 hours to get everything (by myself), and another 1/2 > > hour to load the panels on top of my wagon's roof rack (again, by > myself). > > I'm sure you know Home Despot is not famous for its customer service and > > given how ginormous those warehouses are and having to navigate abandoned > > carts filled with everything from doors to wood beams, you get the > picture. > > Go with someone else if you can. > > > > Bungy cords made it a whole lot easier, plus I didn't have to get on > the > > freeway to get home, ergo I did not test the bungy/panel combo at high > > speeds, I got no higher than 35mph on the way home last night for 1/2 hr. > I > > intend to do 65-70mph up I80 on Sunday. They have plastic jugs of bungy > > cords for $10, so I got 2. If you already have lots of bungy cords in > good > > condition, use them instead. I also bought four 6' split pipe insulation > > sections for my rebar (so no one hurts themselves if they walk into it at > > night), and used that to cushion the bungy cords against the panel edges > on > > the way home, so as to not indent the panels too severely. It worked > pretty > > well, though you should buy 6 just to be safe, as I was short 2 on the > front > > end of the panels (as you can see in the pics). I think once they're > taped > > and loaded, I'll also wrap a moving blanket at least around the front end > > (probably the rear too) of the panel pile so the wind can't get in > between > > each panel individually. It's a fairly thick stack on top of the car and > > will certainly increase wind drag but, I'm not about to rent a vehicle or > > trailer just for the yurt. Everything at Home Depot, including materials > > for tie/anchor-down, cost me $393 last night (if you apply for a credit > card > > they'll give you another $50 off but I didn't though the lady helping me > > gave me $20 off), I already have a mallet so that wasn't included. I did > > get a 16x20 tarp with grommets - $40, and 2 rolls of 100' rope @ $10 each > > (included in the $393). You only need 100' of rope supposedly but, I > > figured for $10 extra better to be safe and have a backup. I got 8 > rebars, > > not 6 (3/8" x 3' should be plenty), I didn't already have a good blade > ($9), > > nor did I have a 48" drywall straight metal edge ($10), so if any of you > do, > > you can maybe save some money on a few of these things, maybe only get 6 > > rebars not 8, only get 100' of rope not 200', it's some savings but not a > > lot. I bought 2 furnace filters for windows but the guy that helped me > said > > he's camped up there once and said that those filters won't work, the > dust > > will still get in because it's so super-fine, granted though he's never > > tried to actually build a yurt and use filters for windows. They even > had > > the foil tape (Nashua brand) there to cover up the bidi fil tape. They > have > > a 2" foil tape, and a 3" foil tape, the 3" is significantly more > expensive, > > though I was tempted because it listed the actual "high temperature" > testing > > on the cover, whereas the 2" didn't. All the hexayurt instructions say > the > > 2" is fine, but the temp listing *not* listed on the 2" tape concerned > me, > > but that helpful employee told me that I'm good with either one, so I > went > > with the less expensive 2" foil tape, got 3 rolls at 50 yards each, > should > > be enough to tape just the parts that need foil tape. Again, this is to > > cover certain portions of the highly flammable bidi filament tape. I also > > got one big roll of gorilla tape to tape the tarp floor to the panels. I > > may get one more tarp to give the roof extra resistance to rain, not sure > > yet. > > Add the bidi fil tape to this cost (I'm getting approx 1260 ft), at > > $179 (not including shipping for the tape) and the total so far is $572. > > So these postings that mention doing a yurt "all for under $300", > even > > without the "frills", horse dookie! I simply see NO way of achieving that > > kind of low cost, especially from some mom n pop store as they can't beat > > Despot prices, not if you do it right, and get the real polyiso foam > panels > > and not the polystyrene crap, and get enough of the real bidi fil tape. > > Bitching aside, some people add carabiners and/or ratchet straps to > their > > tie down (carabiners to the rebar so the rope doesn't fray, ratchet > straps > > to easily tighten the tie-down as it loosens throughout the week). I > don't > > know what those cost off the top of my head but figure 6 carabiners and 6 > > ratchet-straps, though there may be a way to use fewer ratchet straps, > this > > is just theory though, I have not actually built it yet to see. I think > I'd > > rather learn how to do a water knot instead of buying more shit. Consume > > consume consume... > > > > As for wallboard, liquid nails, hurricane straps and what not, I could > not > > envision adding more costs onto what this already cost, as if I go with > > another tarp, or carabiners, or ratchet straps, any one of these will put > me > > over the $600 mark. And with the right panels, the right tape, the right > > tie-down anchor system, I don't think hurricane straps and wallboard are > > necessary. And I don't need the inside to look pretty, although that > would > > be nice. I plan to be ogling the sights on the playa, not staring at my > > walls. > > > > Vamos a la playa ! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 12:32 AM, Ian <[email protected]> wrote: > > > I'm getting as late a start as you. You can get tape from people with > > > extra, I've seen postings here, and also on Craig's List in the past > > > day. > > > Well, okay, it's in the SF Bay Area so not sure if you are. > > > > > On Aug 22, 10:04 am, Alejandro <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hi Dawn, > > > > > > Yes, very late start here but I've found all the materials locally > and > > > > am getting started today on the H13. You mentioned that you built > the > > > > H13. That's what I'm doing. > > > > > > My question is about tape - how many rolls, or I guess the real > > > > question is, how many feet/yards do you need for the H13? > > > > > > I ask because the bidirectional filament tape from goodbuyguys.comis > > > > $30/roll, and at this point I'd have to do at least 2nd day air to > > > > have it in time. I'm guessing 4 rolls, 2nd day air is expensive. > I'm > > > > also not thrilled about the flammability of that stuff, it's like > > > > gasoline. I'd rather not have that kind of volatility present. I > > > > know the regular 8' yurt needs 700 feet as per Vinay Gupta's > > > > spreadsheet: > > > > > > Instead of the bidirectional filament, I'm thinking of a combo of > > > > gorilla tape (but scrubbing the panel edges first with an alcohol- > > > > soaked rag apparently does the trick), supplemented with some 2" foil > > > > tape, both I can get locally and are still in stock. > > > > > > 2nd question is I'm wondering if you already have it set up and wind- > > > > tested it on the playa (of course if you're at the playa now I'm > > > > guessing you won't be able to check your email). > > > > > > And if anyone else has suggestions as to what tape is best and how > > > > much, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. I'm gonna do 1" panels, 13 of them, > > > > and probably a combo tape-down/rope/rebar anchor with carabiners from > > > > the rope to rebar so as to prevent fraying. > > > > > > MUCH THANKS IN ADVANCE!!! > > > > > > -Alejandro > > > > > > On Aug 8, 10:24 am, Dawn Flury <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > Thanks for the tip about Liquid Nails. We began construction > yesterday > > > on > > > > > our H13 and a 6 ft stretch for a friend. We purchased 1/4 inch > thich > > > > > underlying/sheathing boards and used Liquid Nails & edge tape to > bond > > > them > > > > > to the 1 inch insulation boards. I'm very impressed with how sturdy > the > > > > > resulting walls are. We plan to finish up taping the dreaded Danger > > > hinges > > > > > tonight and the whole thing leaves on the container truck this > coming > > > Monday > > > > > for the Playa. I hope to see many of you there. I'll be at 4:30 & > > > Coming Out > > > > > camped with Alchemy C.O.R.E. group stop by and say hello. > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > Dawn Flury > > > > > > > On Aug 5, 2011 4:42 PM, "ken winston caine" < > > > [email protected]> > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > ONLY the tubes marked "Interior and Exterior Heavy Duty > Construction > > > > > Adhesive" work well with foam and other many other poly surfaces. > > > > > > > They have a gold and blue label. > > > > > > > There are a BUNCH of different varieties of Liquid Nails. > > > > > > > Cooly enough, the one that works with foam is one of the lesser > > > expensive > > > > > varieties. > > > > > > > -- ken winston caine > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Cheese" <[email protected]> > > > > > To: "hexayurt" <[email protected]> > > > > > Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 2:15 PM > > > > > Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Late starting yurt > > > > > > > I used liquid nails and it worked great, but I also used the > > > > > Thermasheath with the foil backing. It should work fine. > > > > > > > On Aug 5, 1:13 pm, Dawn Flury <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > How would you recommend attaching it? I'm seriously considering > > > buying the > > > > > > wall board and using liquid nails to bond it to the insulation > board. > > > > > > My boyfriend & I were also considering extra rebar on the corners > for > > > > > > added > > > > > > strength. Any advice greatly appreciated. > > > > > > Dawn > > > > > > > > On Aug 5, 2011 4:06 PM, "Cheese" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > You should think about attaching 1/4" wall board to give it > strength. > > > > > > It adds cost of another $8 a > > > > ... > > > > read more » > > > > IMG_0868.JPG > > 835KViewDownload > > > > IMG_0867.JPG > > 1054KViewDownload > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- Alejandro -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. 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