I've done the math. The roof triangles meet at an angle of about 28°, or 14+ on
each bevel, as measured perpendicular to the joint, which is the reference the
saw will be working on. The reason it's not 360/6=60 has to do with the tilt of
the roof. If the roof triangles were each horizontal in a plane there would be
no bevelling at all. If the roof panels were lined up with the wall panels the
bevel would be 30. The answer has got to be somewhere in between, right?
Believe me: I spent a significant amount of time working this out until I
believed the solution. (You can also see for yourself in SketchUp.)
Cheers,
Steve
--
We don't see things as they are. We see things as we are.
-- Anais Nin
On Aug 24, 2011, at 11:27 AM, Phil Dirt wrote:
> Wrapping your panels with a tarp should protect them from the wind and
> using your rope for a tie down will work as long as you check your
> load and knots every time you stop for a break.
>
> You can remove one of the pedals from your bike with a crescent wrench
> so it doesn't poke into the panels, but still a good idea to have at
> least 1/4" of plywood or OSB to prevent gouging. Also, find a set of
> Allen wrenches an loosen the bolt that holds your handlebar in place.
> Then you can turn it sideways so it won't poke your panels in transit.
> Then simply realign and tighten the handlebar when you arrive.
>
> Beveling the edges makes the yurt much stronger because there is more
> surface area to distribute the wind load. The sum of all angles always
> has to add up to 360º, so for a hexayurt you have two 90º angles where
> the walls meet the ground, then three 60º angles at the peak and edges
> of the roof. When two panels meet to form a 60º angle each is cut at a
> bevel of 30º. All bevel cuts are from the inside (paper side) of the
> panels. If you mark a line 3/4" from the edge you want to bevel and
> set your saw at a 30º angle, your cut will remove just enough foam to
> create the bevel without changing the outside dimensions of the panel,
> i.e., all the bevel cut is removed from the inside edge. Remember to
> wear a dust mask when using a saw. Polyisocyanurate is not something
> you want in your lungs.
>
> On Aug 24, 8:56 am, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> --
>> One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop
>> whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.
>> -- Luciano Pavarotti
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2011, at 7:43 AM, Alejandro Moreno wrote:
>>
>>> @Phil Dirt et al, I appreciate your concern and tips. Bungees were only
>>> to make it home at 10pm at night at 35mph for 1/2 an hour by myself. I
>>> will not be driving up to BM that way. What I was thinking of doing was
>>> taking the 16 x 20 ft tarp with grommets that I purchased, wrapping the
>>> stack of panels in that, then tying that to my roof rack with one of the
>>> 100' ropes that I purchased. Then setting our tandem bike down on top of
>>> that, with some kind of layer of protection in between the tarp-wrapped
>>> panels and the tandem, and also tying the tandem down. Worst case scenario
>>> I'll go to my local REI as it's too late to order anything at this point
>>> from NRS.com, which is entirely my fault of course. Good to know though
>>> that they can be used as part of the tie-down system. I'll google
>>> trucker's hitch. I'll look for those corner protectors at my local lumber
>>> yard too.
>>
>>> I've never done construction-type work before (regretfully), so I've never
>>> "beveled" anything either. I do have a skilsaw. Does setting it at 30º
>>> automatically take care beveling the edges?
>>
>> The joints between walls, and the joints between wall and ceiling, require a
>> bevel of 30°. The angle between the ceiling triangles requires a bevel of 14
>> or 15°. yes, setting the saw to those angles does the bevelling nicely.
>> Remember that the long sides of the panels you cut in half to make the roof
>> from should NOT be bevelled, as those butt together to form the triangles.
>> Also, if you're bevelling, it's critical to cut three roof panels on a
>> left-to-right diagonal and the other three on a right-to-left diagonal.
>> Doesn't matter how you interpret that, as long as you wind up with six right
>> triangles of one kind and six of the other. It's the bevelling that makes
>> this matter.
>>
>>
>>
>>> It seems you would have to alternate the angles, or at least the sides of
>>> the panels that you cut your panel on, so as to have one beveled edge wedge
>>> tightly and properly against another, like 2 cheese wedges facing each
>>> other but then being slid into place tightly, "right cheek to right cheek"
>>> so as to have them fit closely and snugly (forgive the kindergarten visual,
>>> just don't know of any other way at the moment to explain how to cut and
>>> wedge the beveled edges together). Or am I overthinking this, and simply
>>> cut the inside side of the panel edges at 30º, and they'll all fit together
>>> nicely?
>>
>> If you imagine the OUTSIDE of your panels to be the ideal surface (exactly
>> 4x8 walls, 8x8 triangles in the ceilings) with the INSIDE surfaces somewhat
>> smaller, then you should do all bevels taking the absolute minimum of
>> material off the outside surface and all of it off the inside. Do that, and
>> tape the edges well, and your yurt will fit together beautifully.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> "gussets out of scrap valley flashing" ? I'll google gussets. What is
>>> scrap valley flashing?
>>
>>> It also sounds like you're using actual hardware to make some kind of metal
>>> latch mechanism to close your door. I haven't seen any mention of this in
>>> any of the H13 instruction sheets I've found online, but of course it makes
>>> sense. I'll look for pics of this on other yurt designs to get an idea of
>>> what to do. I was just thinking of using tape to connect the door to the
>>> yurt like a catflap, but have it swing inwards so that the wind won't rip
>>> it off. Sound crazy or could this work as a door hinge?
>>
>>> Gratefully,
>>
>>> -Alejandro
>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 5:30 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Please! Do not use bungee cord to tie down your panels for transport!
>>> That's not what it's made for, and not surprisingly, not what it's
>>> good for. Bungee cord tie downs will put you at high risk of having
>>> your panels take off and self-destruct along the highway, and maybe
>>> cause an accident in the traffic behind you. I use 1" cam straps
>>> available from NRS.com. Less well designed straps can be found at REI.
>>> They have a load strength of about 1600 lbs, can be adjusted easily,
>>> and can be used as part of your tie down system once the yurt has been
>>> assembled. Most hardware and auto supply stores have ratcheting tie
>>> down straps, which can be used as well for securing your load and tie
>>> down in camp. Or just use the rope you're bringing to make a halo or
>>> guy lines and learn how to tie a trucker's hitch. (Google it) To
>>> protect the edges of your load you can get 90º angled corner
>>> protectors made out of heavy cardboard at any lumber yard. They throw
>>> away hundreds of them, so it's not difficult to get them to provide
>>> you with an ample supply. Barring that, you can make your own from
>>> scrap sheet metal flashing.
>>
>>> I think sheet rock with liquid nails is unnecessary and way too much
>>> weight to add to your load. Your hexayurt is designed to transfer the
>>> weight of the roof (static and dynamic) down from the roof and through
>>> the walls to the ground. Don't get lazy and build it with straight
>>> cuts and tape. The beveled edges are extremely important for the
>>> weight distribution and overall stability of the structure. You don't
>>> need an extra long straight edge to mark your cuts. I just used a
>>> carpenter's chalk line. Measure the end points, stretch the line (you
>>> can use a screw or nail to anchor the end if working alone), snap, and
>>> you have your cut line. And cutting with a box cutter is way too
>>> inefficient and hard work, especially when cutting your bebels. I used
>>> a Skilsaw (with dust mask) and laid the panels out on 8' 2x4s on my
>>> deck. The section cuts go quickly. Then mark your cut line on the
>>> inside of the panels 3/4" from the edge, set the blade angle to 30º
>>> and let the saw do the work. I worked outside because this cutting
>>> produces a lot of dust.
>>
>>> The dust must be removed for any tape to stick. I used a leaf blower
>>> for the loose dust, then paint thinner on a rag to wipe down the fine
>>> dust off the panels. I just used regular duct tape or Gorilla tape on
>>> the edges. Even 3" tape is difficult to span the beveled edges, so I
>>> just laid down a strip on one side then repeated with a strip on the
>>> other.
>>
>>> The aluminum tape is just to prevent the expensive 6" bi-di structural
>>> tape from fire wherever you use it to tape on the inside seams. The
>>> roll I got is a pain in the butt to use because it has a paper backing
>>> that must be removed as the tape is applied. Wherever possible I made
>>> my structural tape seams on the outside of the HY so I wouldn't have
>>> to mess with the foil tape.
>>
>>> I won't be using the bi-di tape to create tape anchors either. I made
>>> gussets out of scrap valley flashing to distribute the pressure of my
>>> tie downs. May add more flashing where the roof line meets the wall.
>>> Will also use scrap flashing on the door to reinforce the hinge and
>>> latch areas. Plan to use 2" toggle bolts with fender washers to
>>> sandwich the wall between the sheet metal at the hinge and latch
>>> stress points.
>>
>>> If you're building a stretch hexayurt you will have four 2'x4'
>>> triangles as scrap. These I have taped together to create two shelves
>>> to hold my small items inside the yurt.
>>
>>> Bill
>>
>>> On Aug 23, 10:12 am, Alejandro Moreno <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Yes, I found a burner on Treasure Island who bought tape but didn't build a
>>>> yurt. I'm in Marin so we'll connect hopefully today. Went and bought just
>>>> about everything aside from the bidi fil tape for the H13 last night at
>>>> Home
>>>> Despot in San Rafael, I got 13 of their last 14 polyiso panels ($18 each,
>>>> ouch), all they have left there are the polystyrene and some of that bendy
>>>> pink and blue stuff, at least as of last night. Hopefully they'll have
>>>> more
>>>> than that at your locale.
>>>> Thanks Ian!
>>
>>>> (I'll share my buying experience, loading strategy to get home from Home
>>>> Despot, and costs below for those of you who care to read on)...
>>
>>>> Even though I got lucky and found an employee there who used to be a
>>>> contractor (with real working knowledge and knew where everything was), it
>>>> still took me over 2 hours to get everything (by myself), and another 1/2
>>>> hour to load the panels on top of my wagon's roof rack (again, by myself).
>>>> I'm sure you know Home Despot is not famous for its customer service and
>>>> given how ginormous those warehouses are and having to navigate abandoned
>>>> carts filled with everything from doors to wood beams, you get the picture.
>>>> Go with someone else if you can.
>>
>>>> Bungy cords made it a whole lot easier, plus I didn't have to get on the
>>>> freeway to get home, ergo I did not test the bungy/panel combo at high
>>>> speeds, I got no higher than 35mph on the way home last night for 1/2 hr. I
>>>> intend to do 65-70mph up I80 on Sunday. They have plastic jugs of bungy
>>>> cords for $10, so I got 2. If you already have lots of bungy cords in good
>>>> condition, use them instead. I also bought four 6' split pipe insulation
>>>> sections for my rebar (so no one hurts themselves if they walk into it at
>>>> night), and used that to cushion the bungy cords against the panel edges on
>>>> the way home, so as to not indent the panels too severely. It worked
>>>> pretty
>>>> well, though you should buy 6 just to be safe, as I was short 2 on the
>>>> front
>>>> end of the panels (as you can see in the pics). I think once they're taped
>>>> and loaded, I'll also wrap a moving blanket at least around the front end
>>>> (probably the rear too) of the panel pile so the wind can't get in between
>>>> each panel individually. It's a fairly thick stack on top of the car and
>>>> will certainly increase wind drag but, I'm not about to rent a vehicle or
>>>> trailer just for the yurt. Everything at Home Depot, including materials
>>>> for tie/anchor-down, cost me $393 last night (if you apply for
>>
>> ...
>>
>> read more »
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "hexayurt" group.
> To post to this group, send email to [email protected].
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> [email protected].
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
>
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"hexayurt" group.
To post to this group, send email to [email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
