Ratchet-straps! Really, they can't be beat. After using them for transport, you can use them for tie-downs for the yurt. As things settle through the week, you can just give the ratchets a pull or two to snug it back up. It's so much easier than dealing with rope ime.
Spiral On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: > Wrapping your panels with a tarp should protect them from the wind and > using your rope for a tie down will work as long as you check your > load and knots every time you stop for a break. > > You can remove one of the pedals from your bike with a crescent wrench > so it doesn't poke into the panels, but still a good idea to have at > least 1/4" of plywood or OSB to prevent gouging. Also, find a set of > Allen wrenches an loosen the bolt that holds your handlebar in place. > Then you can turn it sideways so it won't poke your panels in transit. > Then simply realign and tighten the handlebar when you arrive. > > Beveling the edges makes the yurt much stronger because there is more > surface area to distribute the wind load. The sum of all angles always > has to add up to 360º, so for a hexayurt you have two 90º angles where > the walls meet the ground, then three 60º angles at the peak and edges > of the roof. When two panels meet to form a 60º angle each is cut at a > bevel of 30º. All bevel cuts are from the inside (paper side) of the > panels. If you mark a line 3/4" from the edge you want to bevel and > set your saw at a 30º angle, your cut will remove just enough foam to > create the bevel without changing the outside dimensions of the panel, > i.e., all the bevel cut is removed from the inside edge. Remember to > wear a dust mask when using a saw. Polyisocyanurate is not something > you want in your lungs. > > On Aug 24, 8:56 am, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: >> -- >> One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop >> whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating. >> -- Luciano Pavarotti >> >> On Aug 24, 2011, at 7:43 AM, Alejandro Moreno wrote: >> >> > @Phil Dirt et al, I appreciate your concern and tips. Bungees were only >> > to make it home at 10pm at night at 35mph for 1/2 an hour by myself. I >> > will not be driving up to BM that way. What I was thinking of doing was >> > taking the 16 x 20 ft tarp with grommets that I purchased, wrapping the >> > stack of panels in that, then tying that to my roof rack with one of the >> > 100' ropes that I purchased. Then setting our tandem bike down on top of >> > that, with some kind of layer of protection in between the tarp-wrapped >> > panels and the tandem, and also tying the tandem down. Worst case scenario >> > I'll go to my local REI as it's too late to order anything at this point >> > from NRS.com, which is entirely my fault of course. Good to know though >> > that they can be used as part of the tie-down system. I'll google >> > trucker's hitch. I'll look for those corner protectors at my local lumber >> > yard too. >> >> > I've never done construction-type work before (regretfully), so I've never >> > "beveled" anything either. I do have a skilsaw. Does setting it at 30º >> > automatically take care beveling the edges? >> >> The joints between walls, and the joints between wall and ceiling, require a >> bevel of 30°. The angle between the ceiling triangles requires a bevel of 14 >> or 15°. yes, setting the saw to those angles does the bevelling nicely. >> Remember that the long sides of the panels you cut in half to make the roof >> from should NOT be bevelled, as those butt together to form the triangles. >> Also, if you're bevelling, it's critical to cut three roof panels on a >> left-to-right diagonal and the other three on a right-to-left diagonal. >> Doesn't matter how you interpret that, as long as you wind up with six right >> triangles of one kind and six of the other. It's the bevelling that makes >> this matter. >> >> >> >> > It seems you would have to alternate the angles, or at least the sides of >> > the panels that you cut your panel on, so as to have one beveled edge >> > wedge tightly and properly against another, like 2 cheese wedges facing >> > each other but then being slid into place tightly, "right cheek to right >> > cheek" so as to have them fit closely and snugly (forgive the kindergarten >> > visual, just don't know of any other way at the moment to explain how to >> > cut and wedge the beveled edges together). Or am I overthinking this, and >> > simply cut the inside side of the panel edges at 30º, and they'll all fit >> > together nicely? >> >> If you imagine the OUTSIDE of your panels to be the ideal surface (exactly >> 4x8 walls, 8x8 triangles in the ceilings) with the INSIDE surfaces somewhat >> smaller, then you should do all bevels taking the absolute minimum of >> material off the outside surface and all of it off the inside. Do that, and >> tape the edges well, and your yurt will fit together beautifully. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > "gussets out of scrap valley flashing" ? I'll google gussets. What is >> > scrap valley flashing? >> >> > It also sounds like you're using actual hardware to make some kind of >> > metal latch mechanism to close your door. I haven't seen any mention of >> > this in any of the H13 instruction sheets I've found online, but of course >> > it makes sense. I'll look for pics of this on other yurt designs to get >> > an idea of what to do. I was just thinking of using tape to connect the >> > door to the yurt like a catflap, but have it swing inwards so that the >> > wind won't rip it off. Sound crazy or could this work as a door hinge? >> >> > Gratefully, >> >> > -Alejandro >> >> > On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 5:30 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: >> > Please! Do not use bungee cord to tie down your panels for transport! >> > That's not what it's made for, and not surprisingly, not what it's >> > good for. Bungee cord tie downs will put you at high risk of having >> > your panels take off and self-destruct along the highway, and maybe >> > cause an accident in the traffic behind you. I use 1" cam straps >> > available from NRS.com. Less well designed straps can be found at REI. >> > They have a load strength of about 1600 lbs, can be adjusted easily, >> > and can be used as part of your tie down system once the yurt has been >> > assembled. Most hardware and auto supply stores have ratcheting tie >> > down straps, which can be used as well for securing your load and tie >> > down in camp. Or just use the rope you're bringing to make a halo or >> > guy lines and learn how to tie a trucker's hitch. (Google it) To >> > protect the edges of your load you can get 90º angled corner >> > protectors made out of heavy cardboard at any lumber yard. They throw >> > away hundreds of them, so it's not difficult to get them to provide >> > you with an ample supply. Barring that, you can make your own from >> > scrap sheet metal flashing. >> >> > I think sheet rock with liquid nails is unnecessary and way too much >> > weight to add to your load. Your hexayurt is designed to transfer the >> > weight of the roof (static and dynamic) down from the roof and through >> > the walls to the ground. Don't get lazy and build it with straight >> > cuts and tape. The beveled edges are extremely important for the >> > weight distribution and overall stability of the structure. You don't >> > need an extra long straight edge to mark your cuts. I just used a >> > carpenter's chalk line. Measure the end points, stretch the line (you >> > can use a screw or nail to anchor the end if working alone), snap, and >> > you have your cut line. And cutting with a box cutter is way too >> > inefficient and hard work, especially when cutting your bebels. I used >> > a Skilsaw (with dust mask) and laid the panels out on 8' 2x4s on my >> > deck. The section cuts go quickly. Then mark your cut line on the >> > inside of the panels 3/4" from the edge, set the blade angle to 30º >> > and let the saw do the work. I worked outside because this cutting >> > produces a lot of dust. >> >> > The dust must be removed for any tape to stick. I used a leaf blower >> > for the loose dust, then paint thinner on a rag to wipe down the fine >> > dust off the panels. I just used regular duct tape or Gorilla tape on >> > the edges. Even 3" tape is difficult to span the beveled edges, so I >> > just laid down a strip on one side then repeated with a strip on the >> > other. >> >> > The aluminum tape is just to prevent the expensive 6" bi-di structural >> > tape from fire wherever you use it to tape on the inside seams. The >> > roll I got is a pain in the butt to use because it has a paper backing >> > that must be removed as the tape is applied. Wherever possible I made >> > my structural tape seams on the outside of the HY so I wouldn't have >> > to mess with the foil tape. >> >> > I won't be using the bi-di tape to create tape anchors either. I made >> > gussets out of scrap valley flashing to distribute the pressure of my >> > tie downs. May add more flashing where the roof line meets the wall. >> > Will also use scrap flashing on the door to reinforce the hinge and >> > latch areas. Plan to use 2" toggle bolts with fender washers to >> > sandwich the wall between the sheet metal at the hinge and latch >> > stress points. >> >> > If you're building a stretch hexayurt you will have four 2'x4' >> > triangles as scrap. These I have taped together to create two shelves >> > to hold my small items inside the yurt. >> >> > Bill >> >> > On Aug 23, 10:12 am, Alejandro Moreno <[email protected]> wrote: >> > > Yes, I found a burner on Treasure Island who bought tape but didn't >> > > build a >> > > yurt. I'm in Marin so we'll connect hopefully today. Went and bought >> > > just >> > > about everything aside from the bidi fil tape for the H13 last night at >> > > Home >> > > Despot in San Rafael, I got 13 of their last 14 polyiso panels ($18 each, >> > > ouch), all they have left there are the polystyrene and some of that >> > > bendy >> > > pink and blue stuff, at least as of last night. Hopefully they'll have >> > > more >> > > than that at your locale. >> > > Thanks Ian! >> >> > > (I'll share my buying experience, loading strategy to get home from Home >> > > Despot, and costs below for those of you who care to read on)... >> >> > > Even though I got lucky and found an employee there who used to be a >> > > contractor (with real working knowledge and knew where everything was), >> > > it >> > > still took me over 2 hours to get everything (by myself), and another 1/2 >> > > hour to load the panels on top of my wagon's roof rack (again, by >> > > myself). >> > > I'm sure you know Home Despot is not famous for its customer service and >> > > given how ginormous those warehouses are and having to navigate abandoned >> > > carts filled with everything from doors to wood beams, you get the >> > > picture. >> > > Go with someone else if you can. >> >> > > Bungy cords made it a whole lot easier, plus I didn't have to get on >> > > the >> > > freeway to get home, ergo I did not test the bungy/panel combo at high >> > > speeds, I got no higher than 35mph on the way home last night for 1/2 >> > > hr. I >> > > intend to do 65-70mph up I80 on Sunday. They have plastic jugs of bungy >> > > cords for $10, so I got 2. If you already have lots of bungy cords in >> > > good >> > > condition, use them instead. I also bought four 6' split pipe insulation >> > > sections for my rebar (so no one hurts themselves if they walk into it at >> > > night), and used that to cushion the bungy cords against the panel edges >> > > on >> > > the way home, so as to not indent the panels too severely. It worked >> > > pretty >> > > well, though you should buy 6 just to be safe, as I was short 2 on the >> > > front >> > > end of the panels (as you can see in the pics). I think once they're >> > > taped >> > > and loaded, I'll also wrap a moving blanket at least around the front end >> > > (probably the rear too) of the panel pile so the wind can't get in >> > > between >> > > each panel individually. It's a fairly thick stack on top of the car and >> > > will certainly increase wind drag but, I'm not about to rent a vehicle or >> > > trailer just for the yurt. Everything at Home Depot, including materials >> > > for tie/anchor-down, cost me $393 last night (if you apply for >> >> ... >> >> read more » > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
