I tried hinges backed with washers on the other side, and the foam ripped to 
shit. It's just not a structural element. Next year I cemented a sheet of 1/2" 
ply to that wall and cut a door into that, applying a piano hinge. Works, 
structurally (mostly: it's still a bazard picking it up if the door isn't 
securely taped in place), but adds huge weight. The ply is handy for protection 
though. 

I'm still looking for the ultimate hinging solution.

Cheers,
Steve

On Jul 20, 2014, at 10:13 PM, Ray Kornele <[email protected]> wrote:

> Use four bolts, at least 1 1/4OD fender washers and wing nuts for tooless 
> assembly.
> 
> 
> KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 2:09 PM, Jay Batson <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey, all -
> 
> Last year I made a Camp Danger yurt.  Loved it.
> 
> I made the door Danger-style - a square door cut in the middle of a side, not 
> extending to the edge.  I used a tape hinge, and Neodymium magnets for a 
> latch.
> 
> By the end of the burn, the door was hanging crooked; the tape had started to 
> come loose.  Photo at end of post below.
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts about attaching two strap hinges directly to 
> the door & yurt?  I'm considering two of these along the hinge edge:
> 
> 
> Some details:
> 
> 
> I'd use at least 3 (if not all 4) hex bolts to attach each side, drilling 
> through the yurt foam, and using big fender washers on the back. Lots of 
> bolts = better distribution of door weight across all the holes through the 
> R-Max
> I would NOT transport the Yurt with these attached.  I'd attach them during 
> construction (on-Playa), and remove prior to packing.
> My yurt is currently NOT WITH ME, and I won't have any ability to work on it 
> before I get to construction on-playa. I'll be fitting them for the first 
> time when putting the yurt up. (It's in-storage in a container, and I'll pick 
> it up on-playa.)
> I'm pretty handy. I'm also obsessive about getting things perfect.  My yurt 
> is built reasonably well - cuts are straight, but the angle of the bevel 
> varies.  (Grrr.)
> I acknowledge there will be a little R-Max Moop that appears when I drill my 
> holes. I will capture it to the best of my ability.
> 
> My key concern is whether people think the holes will start to widen, hinges 
> sag, and in-turn make the dor sag, defeating the purpose. I'm also concerned 
> that getting the hinges on so they actually work; can I get them straight so 
> they aren't fighting each other's angles when they open?  Note that I'd 
> prefer to NOT have to add any "strengthening material" under the hinge - 
> metal plates, 1/4" ply, etc.  Just makes preparing more complex.
> 
> My alternative is to rebuild the tape hinge on-playa.  I'd rather have a 
> better, longer-term solution.
> 
> Anybody have any comments? Good idea, bad idea, ?
> 
> (Photo of yurt with sagging door.)
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of hinge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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--
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        --Anton Chekhov


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