We use hinges like that on the doors. Use LARGE washers where the bolt (a real thin one) touches the panels to avoid puncture.
On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Jay Batson <[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks for the two replies so far. > > I went to Home Depot, and found that the hinge I'd copied into the mail was > SERIOUSLY stiff to move. > > I found another, 8" (not 10, sadly) black decorative hinge that was better > for three reasons: > 1) Very easy hinging; no stiffness; > 2) 3 holes, all in locations I can use; > 3) Lightweight. > > I think what I'm going to try is to actually use _both_ a tape hinge, plus > the metal hinges. I'll have to repair my tape hinge on-playa, but I suspect > I can do that without trouble. > > Hopefully by putting the load across both hinge types I can keep either from > having operational issues, and keep from tearing the foam apart as Switfly > experienced. (The only thing I'm still a bit worried about is alignment; can > it all work?) > > Thanks. I'll still appreciate any new comments people have. > -jb > > On Sunday, July 20, 2014 5:09:42 PM UTC-4, Jay Batson wrote: > Hey, all - > > Last year I made a Camp Danger yurt. Loved it. > > I made the door Danger-style - a square door cut in the middle of a side, not > extending to the edge. I used a tape hinge, and Neodymium magnets for a > latch. > > By the end of the burn, the door was hanging crooked; the tape had started to > come loose. Photo at end of post below. > > Does anybody have any thoughts about attaching two strap hinges directly to > the door & yurt? I'm considering two of these along the hinge edge: > > > Some details: > > > I'd use at least 3 (if not all 4) hex bolts to attach each side, drilling > through the yurt foam, and using big fender washers on the back. Lots of > bolts = better distribution of door weight across all the holes through the > R-Max > I would NOT transport the Yurt with these attached. I'd attach them during > construction (on-Playa), and remove prior to packing. > My yurt is currently NOT WITH ME, and I won't have any ability to work on it > before I get to construction on-playa. I'll be fitting them for the first > time when putting the yurt up. (It's in-storage in a container, and I'll pick > it up on-playa.) > I'm pretty handy. I'm also obsessive about getting things perfect. My yurt > is built reasonably well - cuts are straight, but the angle of the bevel > varies. (Grrr.) > I acknowledge there will be a little R-Max Moop that appears when I drill my > holes. I will capture it to the best of my ability. > > My key concern is whether people think the holes will start to widen, hinges > sag, and in-turn make the dor sag, defeating the purpose. I'm also concerned > that getting the hinges on so they actually work; can I get them straight so > they aren't fighting each other's angles when they open? Note that I'd > prefer to NOT have to add any "strengthening material" under the hinge - > metal plates, 1/4" ply, etc. Just makes preparing more complex. > > My alternative is to rebuild the tape hinge on-playa. I'd rather have a > better, longer-term solution. > > Anybody have any comments? Good idea, bad idea, ? > > (Photo of yurt with sagging door.) > > > > Close-up of hinge: > > > > > > > > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
