Awesome guys!  I can only add that when I use 1/4" (or less) plywood, I
generally sandwich the foam with it on the hinge side.  I tend to put a 1x4
up to whole wall-ID-size inside along the bottom to reinforce the threshold
against clumsy feet.  I also go beyond fender washers - which I do use, but
add 2.25" heavy-ish but somewhat flexible washers I make with a hole-saw
from sheet plastic (think thin "camping" cutting board material or...)...
also considered painting stepped-on soda cans... but... nah.


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote:

> What you're all forgetting is the sheer stress that hinges (and the bolts
> that hold them) put on the polyiso panels, which were never meant to be
> structural.
>
> I cut my 2' x 2' door in one of the 4' end panels of my stretch hexayurt
> to better utilize interior space. The opening extends all the way to the
> ground. I glued a piece of 1/4" plywood to the inside of the cut out to
> make an insulated door. Anything thicker than 1/4" is overkill and adds
> unnecessary weight. The plywood provides all the sheer strength you need
> for the hinge ears and latch that bolt through the door proper.
>
> I reinforced the sides and top of the door opening with 12" wide aluminum
> flashing which I formed into a "U" shape to slip over the cut edges of the
> paneling. This provides sheer strength for the hinges and latch and also
> protects the edges of the door opening from abrasion when entering or
> leaving the yurt. Since I used 1-1/2 panels, I used a scrap piece of 2" x
> 4", folded the flashing over by hand, then beat the daylights out of it
> with a rubber mallet. An eye bolt through the hinge side of the wall and
> another through the door can be fitted with a bungee cord to automatically
> close the door when you enter or leave.
>
> Because the doorway opens all the way to the playa, I needed a transom to
> reinforce the sides and reduce the amount of dust dragged into the yurt. I
> made this with a 2' scrap of 2" x 2" and four metal straps, two on each
> end. This just drops into the opening and is held in place by friction and
> gravity, two of my favorite forces.
>
>
> On Monday, July 21, 2014 1:54:17 PM UTC-7, )(hoenix wrote:
>
>> We use hinges like that on the doors. Use LARGE washers where the bolt (a
>> real thin one) touches the panels to avoid puncture.
>>
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Jay Batson <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the two replies so far.
>>
>> I went to Home Depot, and found that the hinge I'd copied into the mail
>> was SERIOUSLY stiff to move.
>>
>> I found another, 8" (not 10, sadly) black decorative hinge that was
>> better for three reasons:
>> 1) Very easy hinging; no stiffness;
>> 2) 3 holes, all in locations I can use;
>> 3) Lightweight.
>>
>> I think what I'm going to try is to actually use _both_ a tape hinge,
>> plus the metal hinges.  I'll have to repair my tape hinge on-playa, but I
>> suspect I can do that without trouble.
>>
>> Hopefully by putting the load across both hinge types I can keep either
>> from having operational issues, and keep from tearing the foam apart as
>> Switfly experienced.  (The only thing I'm still a bit worried about is
>> alignment; can it all work?)
>>
>> Thanks. I'll still appreciate any new comments people have.
>> -jb
>>
>> On Sunday, July 20, 2014 5:09:42 PM UTC-4, Jay Batson wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, all -
>>>
>>> Last year I made a Camp Danger yurt.  Loved it.
>>>
>>> I made the door Danger-style - a square door cut in the middle of a
>>> side, not extending to the edge.  I used a tape hinge, and Neodymium
>>> magnets for a latch.
>>>
>>> By the end of the burn, the door was hanging crooked; the tape had
>>> started to come loose.  Photo at end of post below.
>>>
>>> Does anybody have any thoughts about attaching two strap hinges directly
>>> to the door & yurt?  I'm considering two of these along the hinge edge:
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xWMrdNtxmLw/U8ws3wkipkI/AAAAAAAAJX0/TUfe1tdqkCI/s1600/StrapHinge.jpg>
>>>
>>> Some details:
>>>
>>>
>>>    1. I'd use at least 3 (if not all 4) hex bolts to attach each side,
>>>    drilling through the yurt foam, and using big fender washers on the back.
>>>    Lots of bolts = better distribution of door weight across all the holes
>>>    through the R-Max
>>>    2. I would NOT transport the Yurt with these attached.  I'd attach
>>>    them during construction (on-Playa), and remove prior to packing.
>>>    3. My yurt is currently NOT WITH ME, and I won't have any ability to
>>>    work on it before I get to construction on-playa. I'll be fitting them 
>>> for
>>>    the first time when putting the yurt up. (It's in-storage in a container,
>>>    and I'll pick it up on-playa.)
>>>    4. I'm pretty handy. I'm also obsessive about getting things
>>>    perfect.  My yurt is built reasonably well - cuts are straight, but the
>>>    angle of the bevel varies.  (Grrr.)
>>>    5. I acknowledge there will be a little R-Max Moop that appears when
>>>    I drill my holes. I will capture it to the best of my ability.
>>>
>>>
>>> My key concern is whether people think the holes will start to widen,
>>> hinges sag, and in-turn make the dor sag, defeating the purpose. I'm also
>>> concerned that getting the hinges on so they actually work; can I get them
>>> straight so they aren't fighting each other's angles when they open?  Note
>>> that I'd prefer to NOT have to add any "strengthening material" under the
>>> hinge - metal plates, 1/4" ply, etc.  Just makes preparing more complex.
>>>
>>> My alternative is to rebuild the tape hinge on-playa.  I'd rather have a
>>> better, longer-term solution.
>>>
>>> Anybody have any comments? Good idea, bad idea, ?
>>>
>>> (Photo of yurt with sagging door.)
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x2sY31pDp0I/U8wu0ZPpYSI/AAAAAAAAJYA/uBr0TcCTSgo/s1600/SaggingYurtDoor.jpg>
>>>
>>> Close-up of hinge:
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KtsiBbaiI_c/U8wvGiTmnRI/AAAAAAAAJYI/5fG2cVnyPm0/s1600/LooseHinge.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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